What a year.
The world in 2024 kept getting crazier by the minute, and the things that happened kept shocking us. Yet the watch universe didn’t really abide to those rules and agendas, since it hit a kind of stagnant pond of mediocrity. This explains the title of this story written by yours truly, as I try to explain the 12 month rollercoaster we just had, oscillating between the high curves of independent creativity and the down hills of big brand ordinariness.
2024 was a quiet revolution in the watch industry. It wasn’t the year of flashy releases or dramatic innovations, but rather a year where the spotlight turned to the independent and creative players of the field. The big names? They had a slower year, with few standout moments, leaving room for smaller brands to flourish. Time-Telling Magazine is here to break down the year that was—a year of cultural shifts, unexpected trends, and a turning point for some of the industry’s giants.
The Rise of the underdogs.
This year was a triumph for the independent watchmakers. Brands that once flew under the radar became the center of attention. With creativity at the forefront, 2024 offered a platform for these smaller companies to show off their daring designs and bold ideas. Meanwhile, bigger brands stumbled or took a backseat, failing to deliver the groundbreaking releases many had hoped for.
Take Tudor, for example. Their new Black Bay 58 GMT “Coke” absolutely crushed it, not just by refining their iconic model but by staying true to their core identity: serious, functional, and affordable timepieces. Tudor has become the go-to brand for enthusiasts seeking authenticity without breaking the bank.
On the other side of the spectrum, we saw Patek Philippe have what could arguably be called their worst year in recent memory. The backlash from fans following their lackluster showing at Watches & Wonders Geneva was unprecedented. Their Cubitus collection left many scratching their heads, questioning whether the brand had lost its way. The one bright spot? The new Ellipse d’Or, a reminder of the elegance that once defined Patek, but even that wasn’t enough to salvage the year.
The Year of Culture Shifts.
Beyond the individual brand successes or failures, 2024 will be remembered as the year when the industry’s cultural landscape shifted. The gender norms that once dictated watch sizes—small for women, bulky for men—are officially dead. We saw a blending of styles, where watches weren’t defined by who wore them, but by the craftsmanship and story behind them.
And speaking of stories, vintage reigned supreme this year. Watch lovers are no longer interested in buying modern homages to past designs. They’re hunting down original pieces from the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, appreciating the history and authenticity that can’t be replicated in a brand-new watch.
This cultural shift also gave rise to the so-called geezer watches—those classic designs that your grandfather might have worn, but now they’re back in style. There’s something about a timeless piece from the past that modern releases can’t quite capture, and the market has reflected this growing demand.
2024 wasn’t without its winners among the bigger names, though. Omega’s partnership with Daniel Craig continued to pay dividends. Their marketing campaign this year was a stroke of genius, tying their classic designs to the allure and sophistication of Craig’s post-Bond persona. Omega managed to stay relevant and fresh, without losing the essence that has made them a staple in the industry for decades.
When it came to recognition, the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève awarded some of the best in the business, proving that excellence still exists, even in a quieter year. Laurent Ferrier, Berneron, IWC, Piaget, H. Moser, and Ming all took home well-deserved honors, each brand bringing something unique to the table. These awards highlighted the depth of talent in the industry, especially among the independents and mid-tier brands.
Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Mirage Sienna
37.09 Bluefin
Spotlight on Furlan Marri: The future.
An honorable mention goes to Furlan Marri, a brand that’s been quietly building its reputation with thoughtful designs and accessible pricing. Their business model, which blends vintage-inspired aesthetics with modern watchmaking, has resonated with a new generation of collectors. We’re excited to share that Time-Telling Magazine is cooking up something special in collaboration with Furlan Marri. You’ll want to keep your eyes peeled for more details in our printed magazine, The Beginner’s Compass, now available for purchase. And if you’re reading this online, you can click that green pop-up on the corner of your screen to grab your copy.
Looking Ahead.
2024 may not have been a groundbreaking year, but it set the stage for what’s to come. The shift towards independent brands, the end of outdated gender norms, and the resurgence of vintage are all indicators that the watch industry is entering a new chapter. With Rolex’s new manufacture on the horizon, there’s no doubt we’ll see the big players step up their game in 2025.
Until then, we’ll keep our eye on the brands that made the most of 2024. It was a year of subtle changes and quiet victories, but sometimes, the calm before the storm is when the most interesting things happen.
Stay tuned, and don’t forget to check out The Beginner’s Compass—your ultimate guide to navigating the world of horology, now available through Time-Telling Magazine.