Since my journey in the world of watch collecting began, and even before that, my love for watches as both functional tools and beautiful accessories has only grown. Each watch design tells a story, from the intricate movement to the case shape, reflecting the artistry of jewelers, watchmakers, and designers who bring these pieces to life.

One of the most significant stories of the past century, a story that continues to resonate every decade, is that of Gerald Genta. His journey began with Universal Genève, a Swiss watchmaker, where he designed the iconic Polerouter. But his most influential creation was the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch with an integrated bracelet and an exposed octagonal bezel. This groundbreaking design revolutionized the industry in the 1970s and remains an icon today.

For me, the Patek Philippe Nautilus holds a special place in my heart. Its groundbreaking design, featuring an integrated bracelet and a unique, porthole-inspired case shape, is truly remarkable. We should also acknowledge the Golden Ellipse, introduced in 1976. While a more understated design, it’s still considered a significant achievement in watchmaking. These two designs, the Nautilus and the Golden Ellipse, are still considered some of the most important and influential watches ever created.

I mention all of this to emphasize the importance of Patek Philippe and its rich heritage in the watchmaking industry. The brand has consistently added value and continues to do so today, carrying a responsibility to uphold its legacy. Unfortunately, the latest release from Patek Philippe, the Cubitus collection, feels like a departure from this legacy.

In a world rapidly embracing minimalism, a style that in my view lacks taste and personality, feeling sterile and impersonal, the Cubitus collection feels like a misstep. Minimalism, while trendy, is a fleeting style, and a minimalist design might feel outdated in a few years. The Cubitus collection, with its sharp edges, square dial, and a movement that feels similar to the Nautilus, offers little to admire. It feels like a painful departure from Patek Philippe’s usual aesthetic.

This release raises questions about Patek Philippe’s direction, especially after the recent comments from its president, Thierry Stern, who referred to critics as “haters” who have never owned a Patek Philippe. Mr. Stern, while passionate about his brand, should acknowledge that not everyone shares the same taste. Movie critics aren’t directors, and food critics don’t own restaurants. In a free world, people have different tastes, and we shouldn’t be forced to accept a design simply because of a brand’s heritage and name, especially after waiting 25 years for a new collection.

I remember when I first saw the Nautilus, I was captivated by its elegant curves and the way it seamlessly integrated with the wrist. It was a watch that felt both timeless and modern. But the Cubitus collection, with its sharp angles and stark lines, feels like a departure from this philosophy. It’s a watch that feels more like a statement of trendiness than a timeless piece of craftsmanship.

While no one is perfect, not even Patek Philippe, it’s important for the brand to learn from this release. Taking customer feedback into consideration, they should reconsider the Cubitus collection and focus on designs that truly represent the Patek Philippe we’ve always admired.

I urge fellow watch enthusiasts to express their opinions to Patek Philippe don in the comment section. Let’s remind them that the legacy of a brand is built on more than just heritage – it’s built on the enduring love and admiration of its customers.

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