Today, we are going to talk about an unusual watchmaker, with a revolutionary idea in the world of watchmaking, from his designs to the movement that make these artworks functional. Sylvain Berneron, an independent watchmaker based in Neuchatel, Switzerland, he previously worked as a creative director for Breitling, Sylvain Berneron is a 34-year-old French designer who has spent the last 15 years working for leading automobile marques including BMW, Porsche, and Ducati He was trained in fine arts and industrial design and was scouted by BMW where he began his career as a working student.

The Mirage’s asymmetrical design is what truly sets it apart. While it might initially evoke the iconic Cartier Crash, the Mirage delves much deeper into sophistication. This is evident in the movement itself, a collaborative effort with movement manufacturer Le Cercle de Horlogers. Le Cercle, known for supplying brands like Trilobe, Biver, and Louis Vuitton, developed a bespoke asymmetrical movement specifically for the Mirage. This caliber, featuring gold main plates and bridges, boasts an incredibly slim profile of just 2.3mm. The use of gold for the movement is a bold choice, rarely seen outside of brands like F.P. Journe. The Mirage’s gold movement is a testament to Berneron’s commitment to pushing boundaries and achieving the thinnest gold movement currently in production, a manual-wind caliber that beats at 3Hz and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

What truly captivates me about this brand is Berneron’s “thinking outside the box” philosophy. The case and movement shapes seamlessly merge into a harmonious symmetry, giving the timepiece a truly unique look and style.

The Mirage collection showcases four distinct dial configurations, each with its own captivating story. The Sienna dial, named after the Italian city-state, features a pigment that transitions from a yellowish brown in its raw state to a reddish brown when heated. This pigment, one of the first used for painting, can be found in prehistoric cave art and was further developed during the Renaissance.

The Prussian Blue dial, a crucial pigment in fine arts, was accidentally discovered in the early 18th century through the oxidation of iron. Adopted by European and Japanese artists, it became Picasso’s signature pigment during his Blue Period.

My personal favorite is the Tiger Eye dial, housed in a yellow gold case. This uncommon stone dial, primarily composed of quartz with fibrous structures, is sourced from South Africa. To enhance its magic, the small second counter is meticulously sculpted directly into the main plate, leaving a mere 0.40mm thickness in that area. This entirely hand-crafted procedure takes a full hour to complete.

Finally, the Lapis Lazuli dial, known for its deep blue color, is a natural stone composed primarily of lazurite, with traces of calcite and pyrite contributing to its unique appearance. Sourced from Afghanistan, like the Tiger Eye, this dial also features a second counter sculpted into the main plate using the same meticulous techniques.

Berneron, an aspiring artist, has revolutionized watchmaking with his philosophy of “one watch, one movement, and a hand-sculpted monobloc dial.” This unique combination is unprecedented in the market, showcasing his artistic vision and dedication to craftsmanship.

The story of Sultan Qaboos bin Said and his watch collection is truly fascinating! It’s a tale of a leader that had a deep appreciation for fine timepieces.

One of the first challenges Qaboos faced was the Dhofar Rebellion, a communist insurgency. He skillfully navigated this crisis, securing support from the Shah of Iran, King Hussein of Jordan, British Special Forces, and the Royal Air Force.

The history of Oman during this period is complex and involves sensitive issues that deserve a separate, more nuanced discussion. While we acknowledge the complexities and potential controversies surrounding British involvement in the region, we want to focus our attention on the fascinating world of watches and the unique relationships that emerged during this time.

The story of Sultan Qaboos’s watch collection is a captivating one, filled with intrigue, luxury, and a touch of history. Let’s delve into the world of these exquisite timepieces and the connections they represent, while recognizing that the broader historical context deserves its own careful examination.

Now, let’s dive into the world of watches. Qaboos had a close relationship with Asprey of London, a renowned luxury retailer. It was through Asprey that he commissioned the first set of double-stamped Rolex 1665 Omani Sea-Dwellers. These watches, featuring either a red Khanjar or Qaboos dial script, were a symbol of his appreciation for the SAS operatives who fought bravely in the Dhofar War.

This first batch of double-stamped Sea-Dwellers, gifted to the SAS operatives in the early 1970s, became a legend in the world of watch collecting. It’s a testament to Qaboos’s leadership, his appreciation for the men who served his country, and his discerning taste for fine timepieces.

Sultan Qaboos was a true pioneer in the world of watch collecting, embracing Swiss timepieces at a time when the industry was just beginning to blossom into a global luxury market. His passion for these intricate pieces was undeniable, even as watch collecting communities were still in their early stages.

One of the most intriguing aspects of his personalized watches is the mystery surrounding the Khanjar signature. While the décalque technique used to apply the emblem is well-understood, the identity of the individual or workshop responsible for this delicate process remains shrouded in secrecy. The Khanjar, a curved dagger that is a symbol of Oman, was meticulously transferred onto the watch dials using a cliché (a metal plate with the design engraved into it). Ink was then applied to the recessed areas of the cliché, and a silicone or gelatine stamp was used to transfer the design onto the dial with remarkable precision.

Despite the clarity surrounding the technique, the question of who actually applied the Khanjar signature remains unanswered. This adds a layer of intrigue to the story of Sultan Qaboos’s watch collection, leaving collectors and enthusiasts alike to ponder the identity of the skilled artisan who brought these unique timepieces to life.

Asprey, the renowned London jeweler, received two distinct types of dials from the Swiss watchmakers: modified and unmodified. The modified dials are particularly rare, as they were specially altered to accommodate the Khanjar signature. This involved creating additional space on the dial, often by repositioning or even removing the original Rolex signature. In contrast, unmodified dials were left untouched by Rolex, and the Khanjar was simply added to the dial, sometimes in a less-than-ideal position.

This is particularly evident with the Rolex Daytona. Some Daytona dials were modified, with the Rolex signature at 12 o’clock being moved upwards or completely removed to make room for the Khanjar. Other Daytona dials were left untouched by Rolex, with the Khanjar being placed elsewhere, such as within the sub-dial at 6 o’clock.

The fact that Rolex would willingly remove their own signature from a dial to accommodate another is a testament to the immense influence of Sultan Qaboos at the time. It’s a practice that would be unthinkable today, showcasing the unique circumstances and power dynamics of that era.

So, there you have it, a glimpse into the fascinating world of Sultan Qaboos bin Said and his extraordinary watch collection. It’s a story a deep appreciation for the art of fine watchmaking. Stay tuned for more, as we delve deeper into the details of these exquisite timepieces and the intriguing stories they hold.

Images courtesy of Luxury Bazaar

Since my journey in the world of watch collecting began, and even before that, my love for watches as both functional tools and beautiful accessories has only grown. Each watch design tells a story, from the intricate movement to the case shape, reflecting the artistry of jewelers, watchmakers, and designers who bring these pieces to life.

One of the most significant stories of the past century, a story that continues to resonate every decade, is that of Gerald Genta. His journey began with Universal Genève, a Swiss watchmaker, where he designed the iconic Polerouter. But his most influential creation was the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch with an integrated bracelet and an exposed octagonal bezel. This groundbreaking design revolutionized the industry in the 1970s and remains an icon today.

For me, the Patek Philippe Nautilus holds a special place in my heart. Its groundbreaking design, featuring an integrated bracelet and a unique, porthole-inspired case shape, is truly remarkable. We should also acknowledge the Golden Ellipse, introduced in 1976. While a more understated design, it’s still considered a significant achievement in watchmaking. These two designs, the Nautilus and the Golden Ellipse, are still considered some of the most important and influential watches ever created.

I mention all of this to emphasize the importance of Patek Philippe and its rich heritage in the watchmaking industry. The brand has consistently added value and continues to do so today, carrying a responsibility to uphold its legacy. Unfortunately, the latest release from Patek Philippe, the Cubitus collection, feels like a departure from this legacy.

In a world rapidly embracing minimalism, a style that in my view lacks taste and personality, feeling sterile and impersonal, the Cubitus collection feels like a misstep. Minimalism, while trendy, is a fleeting style, and a minimalist design might feel outdated in a few years. The Cubitus collection, with its sharp edges, square dial, and a movement that feels similar to the Nautilus, offers little to admire. It feels like a painful departure from Patek Philippe’s usual aesthetic.

This release raises questions about Patek Philippe’s direction, especially after the recent comments from its president, Thierry Stern, who referred to critics as “haters” who have never owned a Patek Philippe. Mr. Stern, while passionate about his brand, should acknowledge that not everyone shares the same taste. Movie critics aren’t directors, and food critics don’t own restaurants. In a free world, people have different tastes, and we shouldn’t be forced to accept a design simply because of a brand’s heritage and name, especially after waiting 25 years for a new collection.

I remember when I first saw the Nautilus, I was captivated by its elegant curves and the way it seamlessly integrated with the wrist. It was a watch that felt both timeless and modern. But the Cubitus collection, with its sharp angles and stark lines, feels like a departure from this philosophy. It’s a watch that feels more like a statement of trendiness than a timeless piece of craftsmanship.

While no one is perfect, not even Patek Philippe, it’s important for the brand to learn from this release. Taking customer feedback into consideration, they should reconsider the Cubitus collection and focus on designs that truly represent the Patek Philippe we’ve always admired.

I urge fellow watch enthusiasts to express their opinions to Patek Philippe don in the comment section. Let’s remind them that the legacy of a brand is built on more than just heritage – it’s built on the enduring love and admiration of its customers.

When you think of Rolex, images of the iconic Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, Datejust, and Day-Date likely come to mind. These sporty, robust watches are synonymous with the brand’s legacy. However, tucked away from the limelight, lies a collection that embodies a different kind of Rolex: the Cellini.

The Cellini collection, named after the renowned Italian goldsmith and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini, is a testament to Rolex’s commitment to exquisite craftsmanship and refined aesthetics. Cellini, born in Florence in 1500, was a master of his craft, known for his intricate goldsmith works, like the Salt Cellar for Francis I of France, and sculptures like the Perseus in Florence. His name, synonymous with artistry and meticulous detail, perfectly reflects the essence of the Cellini collection.

This collection stands apart from Rolex’s more utilitarian offerings, focusing on classic, elegant design. The Cellini is a dress watch, a timepiece meant to be worn for special occasions and to complement a refined wardrobe.

The birth of the Cellini collection can be traced back to the early 1960s. Rolex had successfully cultivated a market where watch enthusiasts sought multiple watches for different purposes. The popularity of tool watches like the Submariner and GMT-Master fueled this trend, paving the way for the Cellini, a watch designed to fill a different niche.

The first Cellini watch, the reference 3801, was introduced in 1968. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, the Cellini’s elegant lines and classic design set it apart from its sporty brethren.

Among the most iconic Cellini models is the Rolex King Midas. Named after the mythical Greek King Midas, who could turn everything he touched to gold, this watch is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Sculpted from a single block of 18-karat yellow or white gold, it weighs between 150 and 200 grams, making it a true statement piece. The King Midas was a limited edition watch, now considered a rare collector’s item. It was even gifted to Elvis Presley in 1970 as a token of appreciation for his sold-out concerts.

The Rolex Cellini, with its timeless elegance and impeccable craftsmanship, is a testament to Rolex’s versatility. It’s a reminder that while the brand is known for its sporty icons, it also holds a place for those who appreciate a more refined, understated approach to watchmaking.

The Rolex Cellini whispers a different story, a story of timeless elegance and quiet luxury. It’s a watch for those who appreciate the subtle details, the craftsmanship that speaks volumes without shouting. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most refined things are the ones that truly stand the test of time.