God bless the fucking internet. Really.

My name is Walid. A name so impossible to pronounce by the snobby europeans with an incline to look at arabs as the Souk vendors in Agatha Christie’s “Death On The Nile”, yet a very “elegant” one to those same europeans once their peers start standing to shake your hand. 

I’m 22 years old. I am nowhere near being a success story or even calling myself one in any realm of life. Yet I can acknowledge when something is not a complete waste of time. 

The Time-Telling magazine is the first thing I’ve done that has had some kind of real impact on people’s lives. 

It gave people a voice. It gave me a voice. It gave people a purpose. It gave me purpose. It gave people a new passion. It gave me the privilege of making my passion bigger than just a hobby. 

Today, the 21st of May 2025, my first ever interview was published by Full Set Magazine.

Now you understand why I had that moment of introspection ?

I discovered Full Set Magazine on Instagram about two months ago. An up and coming watch magazine/blog that focuses on the people. Not the new releases, not luxury group CEOs’ drama… just the coolest people. Almost everybody that was featured on Full Set, was a friend of mine ! Julien Toretto, Lazy Watch… VERY cool people.

After a small exchange of compliments and “good luck” wishes, Mr. Joakim – Full Set’s editor in chief – and I exchanged numbers and got to the real work: reminiscing over childhood memories and uncovering the not-so-alluring parts of running this whole thing by myself. 

I will not be spoiling anything since I really want all of you guys to read the full piece. But It’s more on the emotional side for sure. So if you’re interested in this very ambitious and very proud individual that might sometimes come off as egocentric for his unapologetic dedication – yours truly – then please click here to read the full interview. 

Will I be making my kids read this in 10 years ? You bet. 

PS: I’ll leave with the longer version of my answers to some of my favourite questions from Mr. Joakim. 

Thank you guys for reading and thank you Full Set !

Let me get this out of the way: I’m really happy the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is back.

I didn’t live through the 80s hype, but I’ve always had a soft spot for that cheerful, racing-inspired watch that didn’t take itself too seriously. And while the vintage versions always looked a bit too plasticky for me (don’t cancel me, collectors), this new one? I love it. It keeps the spirit, but finally looks like a watch I’d actually want to wear every day — and not just ironically.

TAG did a great job capturing the retro vibe without falling into the trap of making it a museum piece. The shape? Nailed it. The colors? Spot on. The energy? 10/10. Even the fact that they went solar is kind of cool. Eco-friendly, no battery changes, and still feels like a legit sports watch. So far, I’m all in.

But then — oh then — comes the price tag.

€1,850. For plastic. (Sorry: biodegradable polymer. My bad.)

Now don’t get me wrong, I get it. The materials are better. The solar movement is neat. The sapphire crystal adds points. And hey, it’s a TAG — not a cereal box giveaway. But still, when I look at this cheerful little thing and its vibe that screams “collect me all,” I can’t help but think… isn’t this watch begging to go full MoonSwatch mode?

Swatch got people queuing for plastic watches like it was the new iPhone. And TAG could’ve done the same — Formula 1 liveries, team editions, tracks of the world. Gotta catch ’em all. But instead, they priced it like it’s already on the podium with champagne in hand. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still charming. But that charm hits a little different when it costs the same as a nice night in Tokyo… for two.

Also, side note: I stumbled across the KITH collab and literally said “meh.” Which is shocking, considering I usually say YES to anything Ronnie Fieg touches — like, he could collab with a toaster and I’d ask for the colorways. So if I wasn’t excited, maybe that says something.

All jokes aside: Am I still excited? Definitely. Do I want one? Absolutely. But will I be daydreaming of a £650 version that makes me feel like I’m building a collection of pit lane champions on a budget? You bet.

Final thought? The Formula 1 is back, it looks better than ever, and deep down, I’m not rooting for this price tag. Not even close. I’ll just keep waiting (and hoping) for another Snoopy MoonSwatch livery, because at least that’s what I call funny, collectible, and budget friendly — all the things a Formula 1 watch revival should be.

Microbrands are about the only thing in this world that still gives me goosebumps. Bonus points if the microbrand is Japanese. So you can deduce the emotions I got after getting my hands on one of KUOE KYOTO’s best looking watches.

There’s a lot to be said here. A lot of emotions as I said, a lot of opinions and a lot of conclusions. So allow me today to talk about KUOE and their first dive watch, the SOMBRERO 90-011.

You guys know me well enough to know that I like to put things in context. So how about a little background about the brand and its beginnings ? 

From Kuoe’s website, we can understand that the origin of the KUOE brand and concept dates back to 2010.

Mr. Kenji Uchimura, the designer and founder, was a university student studying language in London, England when he just so happened to enter a shop that was handling antique watches.

There was a line-up of hand-wound watches from the 1940s – ‘70s. He was instantly drawn to them and their ability to keep time even after the rich accumulation of history in the decades that had passed. Although the watches were antiques, they somehow felt warm and refreshing, and were naturally appealing to wear on the wrist.

There, in that shop, Mr. Uchimura found the strong appeal of classic design, and realized that something that is truly classic is loved and revered universally around the world and across generations. Deeply influenced by this experience, he was inspired to create a classic design watch brand of his own.

After graduating university, Uchimura began working for a watch company in Kyoto –a city steeped in Japanese tradition. For a few years, he gained experience in the business and learned more about watches until he was ready to launch a sub-brand which was dedicated to his idea of introducing the classic design he had seen in those antiques in London into new models of wristwatches.

 In 2020, he was finally able to establish his own classic watch brand, KUOE. The first model, Old Smith 90-001 in April. 

Other iconic models include the sleek but robust Old Smith 90-002. Inspired by British military watches from the 1940s to 1970s, the piece features a 35mm case, thick Arabic numerals, and luminous hands. It houses a Seiko NH35A automatic movement and is available in various dial colors, including Dark Navy, Black, Deep Green, and Ivory.

Can’t forget about the Royal Smith 90-006, or what I call the proper gentleman’s watch. The Royal Smith 90-006 is considered KUOE’s premium offering, featuring a 35mm case and a dial with a traditional Japanese “Waffle” texture. It is powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement, which makes it an upgrade on the 006 model line, and has been even more popular than its predecessor.

Okay but what does the public think ? 

KUOE KYOTO has received positive feedback from watch enthusiasts for its vintage-inspired designs, build quality, and value for money. More on that in a bit.

Collectors appreciate the brand’s attention to detail and the nostalgic appeal of its timepieces. The dimensions, the dials… These are keywords that are constantly repeated in client reviews. I mean just type the brand’s name on Reddit and you’ll see how peaceful and positive everybody is; something we never see on the platform… 

Let’s dig into the watch I now have on my wrist.

The Sombrero 90-011. 

The SOMBRERO 90-011 marks KUOE KYOTO’s entry into the dive watch category. Please keep this in mind while reading the rest of this article, because that’s SIGNIFICANT !

Named after the Sombrero Galaxy, the watch draws inspiration from the galaxy’s distinctive appearance, featuring a linen-textured dial and a compressor-style case.

  Quick spec rundown: 

• Case: Stainless steel with a diameter of 37mm, featuring a cushion-shaped design reminiscent of mid-century dive watches.​
  
• Dial: Available in various colors, this one in a distinctive green variant, with bold hour markers and a minute track for enhanced legibility.​

• Super-LumiNova hands and dial.
  
• Movement: Miyota Cal. 9039 Automatic. -10 to +30 seconds per day (23º± 2ºC)

• Water Resistance: 20 BAR or 200 Meters, designed to withstand water exposure, suitable for everyday wear and diving activities.
  
• Strap: Comes with a stainless steel bracelet (Flat link or Jubilee) and an additional leather strap.

MY OPINION AND PERSONAL REFLECTIONS: 

I really like this watch. 

And the whole brand if I’m being honest. I have been in close contact with the company’s media managers for more than 4 months now and that tells you something. I remember mentioning KUOE on my instagram story once and my DMs were flooded with messages along the lines of “Walid are you working with them ?”, “You need to reach out to them and review their watches”… And here we are now.

So, off the bat, that dial is absolutely mesmerizing. The linen texture is so rich and beautiful, especially when you get the chance to play with it under a sunray. Mamma Mia ! 

The credit should be given to the single-domed sapphire glass with AR coating and AF coating, for the transparency and ease of legibility. 

Speaking of that, the finishing on the case and the bracelet are very nice. I took a picture of a Matcha drink for my friend (Terrible drink by the way), and that bracelet was SHINING ! 

On the topic of first impressions, and as I mentioned before, the 38mm case wears smaller than you’d expect. BUT and here’s the catch, the bracelet does give it more definition of the wrist. It does come with a brown leather strap and let me tell you, it completely changes the perceived dimensions of the wrist. 

About that, bracelets and straps, one negative thing about the amazing piece that the Sombrero is, is the clasp. It’s huge. And might I even say, it can be uncomfortable. It really hurts me to say it, but that clasp needs an upgrade. Yes it has the quick adjustment option which comes handy throughout the day, but maybe something lighter, less chunky. 

Love the case, love the dial, love the flat links, love the finishing, love the crowns, love the Internal and bidirectional bezel, LOVE the unboxing experience and all the accessories… 

But should you get this watch ?

I mean, why not ? Priced at $‌859.00, it does have some competition but it certainly stands its ground. A sub 1000$ dive watch like the Sombrero is perfect for anybody trying to graduate from their G SHOCKs or Citizens. It’s well fitting, well designed, well proportioned and well, very practical. AND it’s from a Japanese brand that pays this much attention to details, so again, Why not ?  

*Bonus points for the incredible customer service

I don’t want to make this any longer and keep throwing my personal opinions on you guys, so please tell us what you personally think ! 

Check out KUOE KYOTO here, and see you later !

All the pictures are either ours or taken from https://www.kuoe-en.com/

The Swiss watch industry is now ticking to a more anxious rhythm.

President Donald Trump’s 3rd of April’s decision to slap a hefty 31% tariff on Swiss imports has sent shockwaves through the horology world. This move not only threatens to inflate the price tags of coveted timepieces but also casts a shadow over the industry’s future in the U.S. market. Sounds intense right ? Well, it is, and it’s definitely not an April Fool’s joke.

Imagine eyeing that sleek Rolex Submariner, previously priced at $10,000. With the new tariff, you’re looking at an additional $3,100, pushing the pre-tax price to $13,100. Add state sales tax, and your dream watch now demands over $14,000 from your wallet. As Business Insider succinctly puts it, “Buying a Rolex is about to get more expensive.” 

Rolex is obviously just an example to simplify the urgency of the matter to the newcomers. But the reality is actually worse when you look at it from other smaller brands’ perspectives. More on that later.

The United States isn’t just another market for Swiss watches; it’s the crown jewel, accounting for 16.8% of exports, translating to a substantial 4.4 billion Swiss francs. A 31% tariff could dampen American enthusiasm, leading to decreased sales and a potential reshuffling of global market dynamics.

To the Swiss, the mood among watchmakers is a blend of concern and contemplation. At the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva, the atmosphere was palpably tense. Many brands chose silence over speculation, underscoring the uncertainty ahead. Hodinkee wrote a good article about CEOs’ potential reactions, check it out here.

Speaking of CEOs, luxury conglomerates are bracing for impact. Richemont (Vacheron Constantin, JLC…) and Swatch Group (Breguet, Omega…), both heavily invested in the U.S. market, anticipate financial strains. Analyst Luca Solca from Bernstein Research predicts a 2% contraction in luxury growth for 2025, citing tariff pressures. 

The politics of it ?

The tariff tiff isn’t confined to Switzerland. President Trump has also targeted the European Union with a 20% tariff and the U.K. with 10%. In retaliation, French President Emmanuel Macron is rallying European companies to reconsider U.S. investments, emphasizing the need for a united front. In smaller, much clearer words: Separations. A cold tariff war.

While luxury brands have historically wielded pricing power, the current scenario tests their limits. The resilience of the Swiss watch industry will hinge on strategic pricing, market diversification, and perhaps a dash of diplomatic finesse. As the hands of time move forward, the industry watches and waits, hoping that this tariff tempest will soon pass.

But on the other hand, big watch brands will certainly be forced to rethink their pricing. A positive scenario would be decreasing marketing budgets, which as we know is everything some of these companies care about, in order to stop inflating prices. Tariffs impact the buyer not the seller. But they start damaging the seller the moment there’s no buyer. I’m obviously trying to simplify this as much as possible without any BBC lingo.

What does this mean to Horology enthusiasts and smaller watchmakers ?

Not to catastrophize, but while we are already struggling with creativity, freedom of expression and lack of personality in the releases from major watch brands, the only place we could still look to for a drizzle of artistry is with the small independents. Emphasis on Independent. 

My point is, it is actually VERY fair to say that these little sparks of light will be dimmed in no time. In other words, if they stick to their small production quantities and experimental designs, they will either: 

1- Die. Or 2- Get acquired by luxury groups or private investment companies who will undoubtedly limit whatever creativity they were known for. 

I was very moved by this news as you can tell, but I took my time before publishing this piece in order to have a much more realistic, unemotional view of the situation.

Did anything change ? Nop. 

Do I still think that this is very sad ? Yes. 

What’s the solution ? 

Exploring other markets. The Asian, Middle Eastern and African markets are in my opinion very overlooked. I seriously believe that these companies should take the chance to at least raise awareness of their products’ greatness and heritage. Why ? to get fresh, unbiased and potentially better clients than the ones they’ve been desperately trying to please in the U.S.

Image Credits:

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2025/apr/02/trump-new-tariffs-liberation-day

https://www.en-vols.com/en/inspirations-en/switzerland-places-watchmaking

https://english.news.cn/europe/20250402/e706aac8b62b4c44ab6420647cbd3b6e/c.html

Hello my dear dear readers! lnass here, your very own Horology Tinkerbell. Before starting off this article, I want to thank every single one of you for your many positive returns, heartwarming support and for expressing your love for what I write, I’m very humbled and honored by it all and I love you right back <33 !!!!!

If you are a bit perceptive you may have noticed that us here at Time-Telling Magazine have entered our military watches era. So to stay in theme with Mr. Walid; I’m here to report to you (sprinkle some fairy dust) about one of the watch brands that’s most interlinked with the aviation field: Longines.

So to Gen-Z-fy it, Longines was the it girl of aviation in the 20s and 30s of the 20th century. And with whispers of something brewing in the air, added to what I previously said, what better time to delve into it all than now.

We heard through the grapevine that Longines is planning on doing a COMEBACK; as we all saw with Henry Cavill as their Égérie (chef’s kiss, right?). But I doubt that he is the sole ace in their card deck.

Longines has built quite the “vanilla” or “boring” reputation, essentially something to yawn at rep to the normal observer. But to someone with a finer taste and acumen in horology? they can see that they are “the sophisticated, understated, financially-stable uncle of watch brands”. Known for punching slightly above their weight i.e. offering a great value for money; customers are more than satisfied with their watches, “plan to pass it down to their children” kinda satisfied (All according to my fellow Redditers; and let me tell you Reddit is where it’s AT if you want the real Vox Populi as in the real DEETS).

Still it is overshadowed in the spectrum of watch brands owned by Swatch Group. Some might say that that shadow belongs to its bigger sister company Omega. Other watch purists will say that it’s not worth the luxury title, or even a glance; Because their movements are ETA-provided.

However, ETA is ALSO owned by the Swatch Group like Longines, and both entities have said that the Swiss manufacturer makes custom, modified versions of their generic movements specially for Longines. But does that count as in-house?

NB: For those of you who don’t know, ETA is a Swiss watch movements manufacturer founded in 1793. It specializes in the production of watch movements and has long been considered one of the leaders in the sector. 

As we previously alluded to it, we can’t bring up Longines without evoking their history with aviation.

Longines has played a Titan-esque role in its history, providing precision timepieces for Valiant pilots in the 1920s and 1930s, thus being a trusted companion throughout their Herculean journeys. 

It was the official timekeeper for the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) and measured the flight times of record-breaking aviators, including Charles Lindbergh’s legendary 1927 solo transatlantic flight (in his plane “Spirit of St. Louis”), Walter Mittelholzer, Antonio Locatelli,Francesco de Pinedo, Charles Kingsford Smith all relied on Longines chronometers for their groundbreaking journeys. 

Women aviators were no exception—like Amelia Earhart, Elinor Smith, Ruth Nichols, and Amy Johnson who set world records with Longines on their wrists (In the name of all girls, we love to see other girlies being trailblazers and SLAYING. And Longines being there in those moments is as ICONIC as it is emotional). 

And we’re not done, the brand’s reputation extended to polar exploration, with Richard E. Byrd using Longines instruments during his historic South Pole flight in 1929. They also pushed innovation forward with the Weems Second-Setting Watch in 1929, designed to synchronize time with radio signals, and the Lindbergh Hour-Angle Watch in 1931, which helped pilots calculate longitude mid-flight. By 1938, Longines introduced the Siderograph, a timepiece that displayed sidereal time, eliminating conversion delays in navigation— THEY WERE ON A GENERATIONAL RUN FR

As aviation technology evolved, Longines’ pilot watches remained iconic, inspiring modern reissues like the 1987 Hour Angle Watch anniversary edition and, more recently, the 2020 Longines Spirit collection. These contemporary models blend heritage with innovation, featuring high-legibility dials, robust automatic movements with silicon hairsprings, and COSC-certified chronometer accuracy. With various size and material options, the Spirit  collection (*wink* *wink* Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis) pays tribute to Longines’ aeronautical legacy, offering precision, durability, and elegance to modern adventurers.

Nowadays our *cough* my *cough* beloved brand knows more popularity and appreciation in Asia and Europe because the clientèle there tends to gravitate more towards dressy, design-oriented watches, as we have witnessed the company’s outgrowing efforts to appeal to its female clientele: Dolce Vita, …

That enthusiasm didn’t make it across the Atlantic to America, or at least not anymore with its post-war era. As bigger-instantly-recognisable-brands dominate 77% of the market. Or simply because it’s not an Apple Watch…

You surely get it by now, as I’ve nailed this down through this article, our dear friends at Longines are more lowkey therefore not US-friendly. 

Now let’s get a bit analytical. A brand chooses its “Égérie” -which is French for the person who’s gonna be the face of the brand- according to a particular criteria line-up –Similar Values, Reach/Relatability, and Marketability. 

They basically handpick this celebrity from many others because they feel like their ethos or public persona matches the brand’s own image; or to reach a certain community that the brand failed to access before, through them; or because that individual has the “Midas touch” effect (Yes exactly like the myth minus the curse! you’ll get the ref if you’re a greek mythology fan like me) where everything that they “touch” or here represent and advertise turns to gold and sales skyrocket.

Mr. Henry Cavill may be a global moviestar—thanks to roles like Clark Kent i.e. Superman, Gerald of Rivia in The Witcher, Sherlock Holmes in Enola Holmes—yet he prefers to lead a more understated, lowkey lifestyle; and partakes in nerdy relatable activities as well as refined pursuits He has mastered the tricky balance between rugged masculinity and refined attitude, he embodies being a timeless classic yet a man of his time (as he’s present in Gen Z’s collective consciousness, if you don’t believe me go watch the countless tiktok edits about him). 

And THAT ladies and gentlemen is why Longines has chosen him; because they KNOW that he could rock a Longines HydroConquest just as seamlessly as a Flagship Heritage Moonphase (as seen in the released announcement pictures) .

Longines expect to attract more attention to their already commendable pieces through Henry Cavill. And on paper, it’s looking real good.

But Alas, not all similar “deal of the century” stories like these have happy outcomes, and Breitling knows about this all too well (shameless taylor swift reference) with the still-ongoing Brad Pitt endorsement deal since 2019. Perfect in theory but it did not GIVE AT ALL what it was supposed to give. Their sales didn’t see THAT much of an increase as expected. People have been questioning Brad’s commitment as he’s often seen wearing other brands’ watches on his wrist like Vacheron Constantin…etc. Proving that it was kinda a flop (More on Breitling in Walid’s article)

As a sign of good faith, and actual moves being made by Longines to solidify our claim of their design oriented redirection and their upcoming comeback. We’ll be mentioning some recent pieces or re-releases that are worth a double take.

Since Burgundy dials seem to be in style lately, the brand gave us 2 pieces following that theme: A burgundy gradient dial iteration of the Legend Diver in 36mm.

Another gem would be the Conquest Heritage ‘Year of the Snake’ Edition watch, celebrating of the current Chinese Lunar Year in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces also with a rich red gradient dial with gilt elements; its caseback is engraved with a snake motif designed by Chinese artist Wu Jian’an. Giving Chinese Major Mob Boss Vibes.

Like the Legend Diver, Longines also made a twist on the classic Ultra-Chron with the Ultra-Chron Carbon in a 43mm diameter case with a unidirectional rotating bezel. A mix of effortlessly cool and sleek kind of espionage look. I would totally see Lando Norris or any other young F1 driver wearing this.

More on Conquest Series Longines which has witnessed a line-up expansion, with models ranging from 34mm, 41mm to 42mm chronographs being introduced. These watches come in various dial colors, offering versatility for different tastes. Included in The Time’s the best watches to invest in this season. Less impressive, but greatly appreciated by their clientèle.

In fine, Longines “Girlbossed”,in this case literally soared, way too close to the sun with their record-setting pilots in the 1920s and 1930s. And now with their ever-present excellent craftsmanship (pun intended) and expertise; and adding Henry Cavill onboard, the horizon for their future ventures is looking promising. We, Time-Telling’s editorial team, are excited just as much as you, our dear readers, to see where they are going with this? What’s their next move? Will they be able to rise from their unfair “vanilla” acquired status, and be the next hot topic in the world of horology? fingers crossed.

*whisper* Although as much as I stand by the fact that they deserve more recognition, I, Inass wish that I could “gatekeep” them a little longer

Inass Akisra

As the certified watch lover that I am, I can not help but gravitate towards brands, companies, houses, manufactures… that offer something more than the usual cases, dials and silhouettes. Which explains why I’m always on the lookout for the nichest of niche brands and smallest of micro brands. However, the brand that I’ll be introducing to you today, my dear watch friends, is one that isn’t “micro” , but it certainly is one that I believe deserves the hype that other (boring) companies usually get. 

Speake-Marin is a name that has been making waves in the world of independent watchmaking, and to that I say: Fair enough ! For a brand that thrives on pushing boundaries while staying grounded in the artistry of traditional horology, it’s no wonder they’ve become my current favorite among the independents. 

Founded by Mr. Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, the brand embodies the rebellious spirit of someone who isn’t afraid to reimagine what Swiss watchmaking can be. Speake-Marin crafts timepieces that are infused with personality, elegance, and bold design choices that actually really set them apart from the pack.  

Let me be honest with you guys, these aren’t watches designed to appeal to everyone, and THAT is the point. From their beautiful case designs to their in-house SMA calibers, which is such a deal breaker to me, every detail is deliberate and rich with character. And I find so much joy getting that exclusive look into their atelier on the Instagram stories of the amazing SM team members. S/O those great women !

The result is a collection of timepieces that stand out in a sea of homogeneity. The technical side of the brand is equally impressive; their movements are developed and produced in-house at their workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, ensuring that each watch combines SpaceX level engineering with the soulful artisanal work that defines la haute-horlogerie.

The collections themselves are a testament to Speake-Marin’s ability to blend artistry with that modern touch. Take the Openworked Pieces, for instance. Took the concept of transparency to a whole new level. These watches expose the intricate workings of their movements, transforming mechanical complexity into visual art. The skeletonized design is literally a celebration of the mechanical engine of the watch, inviting the wearer to rethink the concept of a Skeletonized watch.

But if I had to pick a standout collection,and believe me I have (Sponsor me Speakmarin !), it HAS to be the Academic Collection. This is where Speake-Marin truly shines, blending bold design with impeccable engineering. These watches are unapologetically modern, featuring vibrant dials and daring color palettes that will get your wrist to shine, in a good way tho. 

And let me tell you about the Academic Rouge…I wish I could describe how much of a special place this piece holds in my heart. We’re talking about an impeccable fiery red dial and uniquely designed markers, it’s the kind of watch that commands attention while remaining absolutely refined. I mean just take a look at the Red lacquer dial, Billight red matt SuperLumiNova hours markers AND the small seconds at 1:30. So unique.

Behind the curtains is the caliber SMA03, an automatic in-house beauty with a fully integrated micro-rotor.

And let me tell you, I can not wait till I get my hands on it !

I firmly believe that you can judge a watch brand by their collectors (I mean look at RM’s…). And since Speake-Marin isn’t just about creating beautiful watches, the challenging conventions give their collectors something genuinely unique. This is not a brand chasing mass appeal or trying to be the next Breguet or Patek Philippe. Instead, it’s carving out its own space in their own way for those who value creativity, craftsmanship, and a dash of rebellious spirit. Whether you’re drawn to the mindblowing intricacy of the Openworked Pieces, or the bold artistry of the Academic Collection, there’s a Speake-Marin watch that’s sure to resonate.  

Who knows? You might just find your next obsession, just like I did with the Academic Rouge.

Tell us what you think about this articles and brand in the comments !

Since my journey in the world of watch collecting began, and even before that, my love for watches as both functional tools and beautiful accessories has only grown. Each watch design tells a story, from the intricate movement to the case shape, reflecting the artistry of jewelers, watchmakers, and designers who bring these pieces to life.

One of the most significant stories of the past century, a story that continues to resonate every decade, is that of Gerald Genta. His journey began with Universal Genève, a Swiss watchmaker, where he designed the iconic Polerouter. But his most influential creation was the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch with an integrated bracelet and an exposed octagonal bezel. This groundbreaking design revolutionized the industry in the 1970s and remains an icon today.

For me, the Patek Philippe Nautilus holds a special place in my heart. Its groundbreaking design, featuring an integrated bracelet and a unique, porthole-inspired case shape, is truly remarkable. We should also acknowledge the Golden Ellipse, introduced in 1976. While a more understated design, it’s still considered a significant achievement in watchmaking. These two designs, the Nautilus and the Golden Ellipse, are still considered some of the most important and influential watches ever created.

I mention all of this to emphasize the importance of Patek Philippe and its rich heritage in the watchmaking industry. The brand has consistently added value and continues to do so today, carrying a responsibility to uphold its legacy. Unfortunately, the latest release from Patek Philippe, the Cubitus collection, feels like a departure from this legacy.

In a world rapidly embracing minimalism, a style that in my view lacks taste and personality, feeling sterile and impersonal, the Cubitus collection feels like a misstep. Minimalism, while trendy, is a fleeting style, and a minimalist design might feel outdated in a few years. The Cubitus collection, with its sharp edges, square dial, and a movement that feels similar to the Nautilus, offers little to admire. It feels like a painful departure from Patek Philippe’s usual aesthetic.

This release raises questions about Patek Philippe’s direction, especially after the recent comments from its president, Thierry Stern, who referred to critics as “haters” who have never owned a Patek Philippe. Mr. Stern, while passionate about his brand, should acknowledge that not everyone shares the same taste. Movie critics aren’t directors, and food critics don’t own restaurants. In a free world, people have different tastes, and we shouldn’t be forced to accept a design simply because of a brand’s heritage and name, especially after waiting 25 years for a new collection.

I remember when I first saw the Nautilus, I was captivated by its elegant curves and the way it seamlessly integrated with the wrist. It was a watch that felt both timeless and modern. But the Cubitus collection, with its sharp angles and stark lines, feels like a departure from this philosophy. It’s a watch that feels more like a statement of trendiness than a timeless piece of craftsmanship.

While no one is perfect, not even Patek Philippe, it’s important for the brand to learn from this release. Taking customer feedback into consideration, they should reconsider the Cubitus collection and focus on designs that truly represent the Patek Philippe we’ve always admired.

I urge fellow watch enthusiasts to express their opinions to Patek Philippe don in the comment section. Let’s remind them that the legacy of a brand is built on more than just heritage – it’s built on the enduring love and admiration of its customers.