Patek Philippe Did Not Disappoint.

Let me say it again. Patek Philippe did not disappoint. 

The face of high watchmaking had a –how can I say it nicely– a “setback” this past October 2024, with its leaked Cubitus collection. The 3 watches that quite literally SHOOK the watch world as well as our flawless perception of the brand and its executives. Full article here.

Especially when the CEO basically called all of us poor peasants… But I digress. 

2025’s Pateks were BEAUTIFUL. I use “beautiful” to reaffirm a point made by Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer when he said: “I need for Patek to be beautiful…” and I couldn’t agree more. I know I’m repeating myself here, but Patek Philippe IS Haute-Horlogerie. Just look at something like the ref. 1518. Do yourself that favor. 

This article is about Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. 

Not all of them, but the ones that I consider to be modern day classics. The watches we will 100% see in auctions in about 40 years from now. The watches that hit every spot. The watches that truly matter.

My number 1, the 5370R.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5370R is a distinguished timepiece that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to haute horlogerie, combining intricate complications with exquisite craftsmanship. It marks the first iteration of this model in rose gold, expanding upon its predecessors by offering a warmer aesthetic. This release continues Patek Philippe’s tradition of creating sophisticated split-seconds chronographs, a complication highly esteemed by watch enthusiasts for its complexity and functionality. In other words, what sold it for me.

Concerning the boring technicalities, the watch is crafted in 18K rose gold, the case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.56mm in thickness, providing a substantial yet elegant presence on the wrist. The piece features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial, a testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery in dial-making (as well as everything else to be honest). The dial is adorned with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale. The whole package is on a dark chestnut alligator leather strap, secured with a rose gold fold-over clasp. Nothing out of the ordinary.

Okay but what’s inside ? 

At the heart of the 5370R is the manually wound Caliber CHR 29-535 PS, an in-house movement renowned for its traditional architecture, including a column wheel and horizontal clutch. This movement is a culmination of Patek Philippe’s expertise in chronograph design.

This advanced caliber contains a split-seconds chronograph complication. Meaning, it allows the measurement of intermediate times—a feature highly valued in precision timekeeping. Additionally, it includes a tachymeter scale for calculating speed over a known distance. The newcomers must be loving this LOL…

Let me make something clear, this is not a new watch. Prior to the 5370R (R for rose gold), Patek Philippe released the Reference 5370P (P for Platinum) in 2015, featuring a platinum case and black enamel dial. The transition to rose gold with the 5370R introduces a warmer aesthetic and one that in my opinion gives it more depth and emphasizes the point made earlier about Patek being BEAUTIFUL.

I said it before and I’ll say it again, this is my favorite watch from this year’s W&WG.

But we’re definitely not done yet.

IT’S CALATRAVA TIME !

 The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6196P-001, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, made me tear up from joy. This platinum timepiece draws inspiration from Patek Philippe’s storied history, notably the iconic Reference 96. Again, tears. 

I will always ALWAYS love Calatravas. 

Hell, my grail watch is a vintage yellow gold Ref. 96 with Breguet numerals. 

Please note that these watches are from the 50s. As in the 1950s. So to get a 2025 release that is SO true to the original and traditional Calatrava design… I think you get my point.

Specs time !!

The 6196P-001 features a 38mm diameter and a thickness of 9.33mm, crafted from platinum. The case design merges brushed surfaces with a polished bezel and slender lugs. The opaline rose-gilt (salmon) dial adorned with applied white gold faceted “obus”-style hour markers and a small-seconds indicator at 6 o’clock. 

The point here again, is the preservation of the true identity of the “Calatrava”.

Priced at $47,130, it is no “entry level Patek” despite its incredible simplicity and lack of complications. Again, it’s a Calatrava. 

The Patek Philippe 4946R: This one deserves way more applause from us.

So, the Patek Philippe 4946R doesn’t scream for attention. It’s not trying to win chronograph battles or one-up other complications. What it does instead is offer one of the cleanest annual calendars you can wear without feeling like you’re trying too hard. This reference—in rose gold, naturally—keeps things refined, functional, and cool as hell. If the 5370R (Mentioned previously as my fav) is a grand statement, the 4946R is a whisper that still gets heard.

Now for the boring bits (you asked for it):

This model comes in an 18K rose gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. So yeah, smaller than what most modern buyers are used to, but that’s the point—it’s elegant, not shouty. The dial? Opaline silver-gray with gold applied numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Just enough detail to make it interesting, but not enough to make you stare at it confused. On the dial you’ve got the day, month, 24-hour indication, moon phase, and a date subdial—all in perfect balance. It’s like Swiss graphic design in watch form.

Under the hood (or caseback if you’re being literal), you’ve got the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU. That’s Patek’s go-to annual calendar movement—one that only needs adjusting once a year in February. Yes, it’s that smart. And no, you don’t need to take it to your watch guy every other month.

This reference as I said will probably stick around for a while. Why? Because it works. Because it’s beautiful. And because not everything needs a reinvention to stay relevant. The 4946R is for people who understand that winning doesn’t always have to be complicated—even though, in this case, it low-key is.

Closing statement: No matter how many case sizes it gets or materials they make it with, I will always be a certified Cubitus hater. 

Stay tuned for the upcoming indie watch releases article and subscribe to the newsletter to get notified. 

I had so much fun writing this, I love you guys.

Walid Benla.