Behind Every Great Lap Time, There’s an Even Greater Chronograph.

If you read all our previous articles in the In Play series, you’d have surely deduced that brand involvement/marketing strategy (placement, alignment) is mostly, if not integrally, psychological warfare.

We’ve covered tennis, golf, and equestrian sports, with each exploring how watches operate within their worlds. And came to conclude that they don’t mean the same thing across disciplines. In tennis, they represent ascendancy. In golf, tradition. In saddlesports, the social code. But something’s been left unsaid. Or maybe just delayed. And a hunch tells me you share my feeling, too dear reader? Hopefully, or else I’ll seem like a delusional fool.

Since we talked about horses, let’s pivot towards something more passionate, less coded, and that still involves horsepower: the FIA Formula One World Championship—or, more commonly known, Formula 1.

Whereas in the previously mentioned sports, everyone has to keep it mindful and demure to a certain extent, F1 plays by a totally different logic.

Because really, why would you want to be subtle while sharing the grid with 20 V6 turbo hybrid engines that blast at the same volume as jet engines? (130 decibels. I’ve checked. I’m just as shocked as you are). Watches can be as loud and flashy as they want—nothing they do will ever out-boom the cars.

The rules here are so different that the watch brand dominating every other sport doesn’t even run this track. Cough cough, Rolex. It never quite felt at home in F1, even after holding the title of official timekeeper for 13 years. Because it forgot the golden rule:

In F1, the grid doesn’t care about subtlety, and neither do the watches that survive on it. Seeing that the winning watch brand isn’t the most historic—it’s the one that looks like it was built in a wind tunnel or made to withstand 6Gs.

Richard Mille is the perfect specimen that backs up this theory.

Not only are they one of the flashiest watch brands there is, but they landed a collaboration with 2 very notable teams, McLaren (2017) and Scuderia Ferrari (2021).

Their collabs with McLaren and Ferrari aren’t just branded crossovers—they feel like extensions of each team. The 4 McLaren pieces (RM 11-03, RM 50-03, RM 40-01, and RM 65-01 McLaren W1) reflect exactly what the team is known for: pushing limits through materials, keeping things ultra-light, and building with performance in mind. On the Ferrari side, the RM UP-01, RM 43-01 and the new RM 72-01 “Charles Leclerc” are a nod to pure racing heritage—sleek, technical, and unmistakably tied to the brand’s visual and mechanical DNA. It’s design that actually makes sense in the world it’s meant for. And the best part is that these watches aren’t sitting behind glass. They’re actively seen out and about in the grid, on the drivers wrists. All 4 of them. Ultimately fulfilling the finality behind these partnerships, which is gaining visibility.

If there’s one brand that’s earned its stripes on the F1 circuit, it’s TAG Heuer.

As they famously served as the sport’s official timekeeper from 1992 until 2003. But their ties to the sport go way back—like 1971 back—when they became the first watchmaker to sponsor a Formula 1 team (Scuderia Ferrari, no less). Back then, they were still just Heuer, and the partnership was more on the actually operational side than being a simple branding move. They supplied trackside timing systems (translation: timing their engine speed/performances)and dashboard chronographs to Ferrari; all of this meant so much to Jack Heuer that he offered their services free of charge. It was a bet on prestige, not profit—and a clever one at that because it paid off. During that era, Ferrari won multiple titles with Niki Lauda behind the wheel, and Heuer became part of that golden narrative.

This sponsorship also gave rise to a few timepieces. The Heuer Carrera 1158 CHN, an 18-karat gold chronograph, was gifted to Ferrari drivers like Niki Lauda and Clay Regazzoni—a highly coveted collector’s item today. Another standout was the Heuer Monza Chronograph featuring a distinctive cushion-shaped case (which kinda reminded me of the Ralph Lauren Western Cushion) introduced in 1976 to commemorate Lauda’s first world title with Ferrari. Named after the emblematic Italian circuit. These watches surpass their intended purpose of just being worn and are real markers of the legacy of this joint venture.

In 1985, after TAG (Techniques d’Avant Garde) Group acquired Heuer, the newly formed TAG Heuer kicked off what would become a legendary 30-year collaboration with McLaren (1985-2015). This partnership spanned the Senna-Prost rivalry, Mika Häkkinen’s championship era, and Lewis Hamilton’s first title in 2008. Their logo was on the suits, the helmets, the tools—not just the cars.

Over the years, they co-developed a number of co-branded timepieces that celebrated McLaren’s racing spirit and technological DNA. Notable models included the TAG Heuer Formula 1 McLaren Special Editions, designed with McLaren’s signature colors and branding; the TAG Heuer Carrera MP4-12C Chronograph, inspired by the McLaren supercar of the same name, featuring carbon fiber dials and tachymeter scales; the Kirium Ti5 McLaren Edition, a limited edition model with a lightweight titanium case; and the SLR Chronograph, developed in homage to the Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren supercar, fusing automotive design cues with horological craftsmanship.

The partnership even involved technical R&D (Research & Development) between the two brands, evolving into something far beyond simple marketing—true co-creation.

In 1986, TAG Heuer launched the now-iconic Formula 1 collection—bold, accessible, and full of color—targeted towards younger fans but still rooted in the speed and adrenaline of the sport. Nearly four decades later, in 2024, TAG Heuer partnered with lifestyle brand Kith to reissue this collection, reviving ten models from that exact 1986 lineup. The revival gave new collectors (and longtime fans) a fresh reason to revisit their love of F1-style timekeeping. 

After ending their three-decade partnership with McLaren in 2015, TAG Heuer didn’t exit the track—they switched lanes. In 2016, they became the official partner and timekeeper of what is now the Oracle Red Bull Racing Formula 1 Team. This partnership marked a shift in energy: Red Bull was younger, edgier, and fiercely competitive. TAG Heuer even branded the team’s power units as “TAG Heuer” engines for several seasons—a bold move that amplified visibility and deepened integration. 

And let’s be real, watch brands do looove some wristshots. Because that’s where the halo effect kicks in: the driver wins, and the watch wins with them.

The collaboration extended beyond branding into product design, with multiple Red Bull Racing special edition watches that reflect the team’s personality and high-performance ethos. Among them, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Red Bull Racing Special Edition (CAZ101AL.FT8052) features a blue sunray dial and red-yellow accents, while its sibling, the CAZ101AK.BA0842 pairs a steel case with a tachymeter bezel. The Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing (CBZ2080.FT8091) with a titanium case and forged carbon bezel. And for the tech-forward crowd, there’s the Connected Calibre E4 Red Bull Racing Edition(SBR8A80.EB0365), a smartwatch. Which may not thrill mechanical purists (Walid included) but it absolutely fits Red Bull’s data-driven, tech-obsessed DNA. 

But most of all, let me tell you about one person who was important in TAG’s history with F1: Ayrton Senna. THE ICON. He was chosen to be ambassador because he was the human embodiment of how TAG Heuer wanted to seem: precise, relentless, technical, and wired for greatness. The brand has honored that legacy ever since, through Senna Special Editions that still show up in the Formula 1 and Carrera lines, with the signature “S” logo, bold bezels, and colors that nod to his helmet and Brazilian heritage. I like to believe that it’s not just a nostalgic nod but an act of continuity, of still keeping him on the wrist of the sport ever since.

At Watches & Wonders 2025, TAG Heuer didn’t just show up—they leaned all the way into their racing DNA. First up was the Formula 1 Solargraph: a throwback to the brand’s colorful ’80s era, inspired by the same 1986 collection that informed the look of the Kith collab. Even though this release resembles the revival pieces, it’s fundamentally different—it’s forward-facing and now equipped with solar-powered tech, making it far more functional for daily wear. Then came the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1: a white ceramic watch with a translucent red dial that raised quite a few eyebrows. Both models are loud in every way (right and wrong), proving TAG’s still got it.

Today in 2025, post 22 years of absence, we’re pleased to see that they reclaimed their previous,rightful, title with a fresh 10-year deal under the LVMH umbrella from their predecessor (or usurper some might argue; but we’ll leave that discretion up to you) Rolex.

Aside from these two titans—TAG Heuer and Richard Mille—the rest of the F1 grid isn’t watchless . IWC Schaffhausen backs Mercedes-AMG Petronas, Girard-Perregaux partners with Aston Martin, Tudor joins Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (formerly AlphaTauri), and H. Moser & Cie. supports Alpine. But these collaborations mostly trickle through the same golden rule filter: big, bold, aggressive-looking, crammed-dialed watches, dressed in their teams’ liveries. 

In fine, every sport represents a different medium for watches: F1 is a colosseum, just as tennis is a stage, golf is a clubhouse key, and saddlesports are a monogrammed VIP invite. To be part of the action in the Colosseum arena, a watch can’t just show up—it has to be spec’d up, engineered for adrenaline, and dressed with the right gear or ethos to survive the pace. Only then does it earn its shot under the floodlights, in a moment of global spotlight.

I’ve been around watches long enough to know when one’s just a fling and when it’s a full-blown horological crush. You know the type—where you’re checking your wrist more to admire the dial than to tell the time, and you start timing things just for the joy of pressing a pusher. That started the moment I unboxed the Anders & Co AC1.

Let me take it back to when and where it started. This isn’t one of those giant heritage maisons or obscure Swiss indies charging a kidney and a half for a manually wound minute repeater. No, Anders & Co is a fresh face from Sweden, founded in 2024 by Mr. Alexander Larsson. This wasn’t some VC-funded hype machine either. Mr. Larsson’s story has roots. He was the U.S. brand manager for David Candaux, one of the most respected names in high-end independent watchmaking. But when COVID pulled the rug out from under his job, Larsson packed up and moved back to Sweden with a mission: make well-designed, vintage-inspired watches that real people could afford.

He named the company after his grandfather, Anders. Class move for sure. Even the brand’s logo has a story since it’s inspired from Pucon, a Chilean town close to Larsson’s heart. 

The Anders & Co AC1 Chronograph.

As of today, the AC1 Chronograph is their debut piece. And frankly, they could’ve stopped there, mic-dropped, and left the room. It’s that good. Mine? The Rose dial configuration. That dial… oh, that dial. It’s not just “Rose”, it’s the kind of Salmon dials that you only see with Patek or other high watchmaking names. It changes tones in different light like it’s got moods. And the Breguet numerals? Come onnn… That’s a flex. They give the whole thing this old-world charm without getting mainstream-y.

Specs-wise, it’s hitting all the sweet spots: 38mm in diameter (finally, someone’s listening), just over 11mm thick, double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating (More on this in a bit), and a Seiko VK64 Mechaquartz beating inside. Yes, mechaquartz. I can already hear a few mechanical-only purists sneering, but this movement hits the perfect note: quartz accuracy with a satisfying mechanical chronograph snap. You push the button, and you feel it. It’s tactile.

Once you own a few mechanical chronographs, you’ll learn to appreciate the loyalty of a Mechaquartz piece.

Wearing it? Effortless.

I’ve got mechanical divers, Swiss chronos, and a couple dress watches that probably think they’re royalty. But since the AC1 arrived, they’ve all taken a back seat. The AC1 slides under a cuff, shines in the sun, and starts conversations with people who don’t even know what a tachymeter is. It’s a vibe.

The case is stainless steel, the finishing: Crisp. It’s not over-engineered or trying to be something it’s not. It just works. Every element—from the 20mm leather strap (thank you for keeping it standard, Anders & Co) to the 3 ATM water resistance—is well considered. It feels like it was designed by someone who wears watches, not someone trying to reinvent them.

It’s not just me who noticed that the brand clearly cares. They’re not mass-producing this thing to death. Limited runs, thoughtful details… 

What really got me, though, is the community they’re building. Anders & Co isn’t just selling watches—they’re building a club, a vibe, a little corner of the internet (and the world) where people care about design, details, and stories. I registered early, shared a bit of my collecting journey with them, and it felt like talking to fellow watch nuts—not customer service bots in disguise. I even had the chance to talk to the founder ! 

Speaking of building a club, Anders & Co is now involved in the world of sailing. A sport I personally adore (Can’t wait for them to invite me on a sailing trip haha). I’ll let Mr Alexander tell you about it:

Yes, absolutely, we’re based on the west coast of Sweden, where sailing is quite big. We’re in Marstrand, which hosts a stop on the World Match Racing Tour. I got to meet Chris Poole there last summer after he won the event. He’s really into watches, so the ambassadorship came about pretty naturally.

My grandfather Anders was also very into sailing, so this all feels kind of full circle. It was a bit of a spontaneous partnership, since most of our designs have leaned vintage, but it’s opened the door for us to start working on high water resistance watches in the future, which we’re really excited about.

Everything about Anders & Co feels personal. It’s a tribute. A family story. A passion project that actually delivers.

Aside from the amazing dial and the very useful chronograph complication (I like to time everything guys, I’m a freak), the double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating makes the watch what it is. I’m not being dramatic, let me explain. 

With this type of crystal, one is able to appreciate some of the finest details on the dial. For instance, the ripple effect on the subdials would not have been apparent if the glass wasn’t so smooth and anti-reflective. The curved edges magnify the tachymeter scale, which allows me to nerd out on every millisecond. 

A Traditional Chronograph Design Identity.

A thought I shared in my recent Instagram Reel has stuck with me. This watch scratches my itch for a Patek Philippe ref.1463 “Tasti Tondi”.

YOU SEE IT RIGHT !? The Breguet numerals on 12 and 6, the tachymeter scale, the double domed sapphire…

I’m not saying that the AC1 is inspired by this reference whatsoever. What I’m saying is: This 2024 chronograph respects traditional design elements that make it feel and look like a proper luxury watch. 

Mr Alexander is no newcomer, which explains how fine this watch is.

Would I call it my favorite watch? Currently, yes. Today, right now, the AC1 is the one. It’s on my wrist as I write this, and it’ll still be there when I step out later—whether I’m grabbing coffee or heading into a work meeting. It just works.

So yeah, consider this my love letter to the AC1 Chronograph. Not because it’s flashy. Not because it’s hyped. But because it’s the rare kind of watch that reminds you why you got into this hobby in the first place.

Let me say it again. Patek Philippe did not disappoint. 

The face of high watchmaking had a –how can I say it nicely– a “setback” this past October 2024, with its leaked Cubitus collection. The 3 watches that quite literally SHOOK the watch world as well as our flawless perception of the brand and its executives. Full article here.

Especially when the CEO basically called all of us poor peasants… But I digress. 

2025’s Pateks were BEAUTIFUL. I use “beautiful” to reaffirm a point made by Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer when he said: “I need for Patek to be beautiful…” and I couldn’t agree more. I know I’m repeating myself here, but Patek Philippe IS Haute-Horlogerie. Just look at something like the ref. 1518. Do yourself that favor. 

This article is about Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. 

Not all of them, but the ones that I consider to be modern day classics. The watches we will 100% see in auctions in about 40 years from now. The watches that hit every spot. The watches that truly matter.

My number 1, the 5370R.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5370R is a distinguished timepiece that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to haute horlogerie, combining intricate complications with exquisite craftsmanship. It marks the first iteration of this model in rose gold, expanding upon its predecessors by offering a warmer aesthetic. This release continues Patek Philippe’s tradition of creating sophisticated split-seconds chronographs, a complication highly esteemed by watch enthusiasts for its complexity and functionality. In other words, what sold it for me.

Concerning the boring technicalities, the watch is crafted in 18K rose gold, the case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.56mm in thickness, providing a substantial yet elegant presence on the wrist. The piece features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial, a testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery in dial-making (as well as everything else to be honest). The dial is adorned with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale. The whole package is on a dark chestnut alligator leather strap, secured with a rose gold fold-over clasp. Nothing out of the ordinary.

Okay but what’s inside ? 

At the heart of the 5370R is the manually wound Caliber CHR 29-535 PS, an in-house movement renowned for its traditional architecture, including a column wheel and horizontal clutch. This movement is a culmination of Patek Philippe’s expertise in chronograph design.

This advanced caliber contains a split-seconds chronograph complication. Meaning, it allows the measurement of intermediate times—a feature highly valued in precision timekeeping. Additionally, it includes a tachymeter scale for calculating speed over a known distance. The newcomers must be loving this LOL…

Let me make something clear, this is not a new watch. Prior to the 5370R (R for rose gold), Patek Philippe released the Reference 5370P (P for Platinum) in 2015, featuring a platinum case and black enamel dial. The transition to rose gold with the 5370R introduces a warmer aesthetic and one that in my opinion gives it more depth and emphasizes the point made earlier about Patek being BEAUTIFUL.

I said it before and I’ll say it again, this is my favorite watch from this year’s W&WG.

But we’re definitely not done yet.

IT’S CALATRAVA TIME !

 The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6196P-001, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, made me tear up from joy. This platinum timepiece draws inspiration from Patek Philippe’s storied history, notably the iconic Reference 96. Again, tears. 

I will always ALWAYS love Calatravas. 

Hell, my grail watch is a vintage yellow gold Ref. 96 with Breguet numerals. 

Please note that these watches are from the 50s. As in the 1950s. So to get a 2025 release that is SO true to the original and traditional Calatrava design… I think you get my point.

Specs time !!

The 6196P-001 features a 38mm diameter and a thickness of 9.33mm, crafted from platinum. The case design merges brushed surfaces with a polished bezel and slender lugs. The opaline rose-gilt (salmon) dial adorned with applied white gold faceted “obus”-style hour markers and a small-seconds indicator at 6 o’clock. 

The point here again, is the preservation of the true identity of the “Calatrava”.

Priced at $47,130, it is no “entry level Patek” despite its incredible simplicity and lack of complications. Again, it’s a Calatrava. 

The Patek Philippe 4946R: This one deserves way more applause from us.

So, the Patek Philippe 4946R doesn’t scream for attention. It’s not trying to win chronograph battles or one-up other complications. What it does instead is offer one of the cleanest annual calendars you can wear without feeling like you’re trying too hard. This reference—in rose gold, naturally—keeps things refined, functional, and cool as hell. If the 5370R (Mentioned previously as my fav) is a grand statement, the 4946R is a whisper that still gets heard.

Now for the boring bits (you asked for it):

This model comes in an 18K rose gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. So yeah, smaller than what most modern buyers are used to, but that’s the point—it’s elegant, not shouty. The dial? Opaline silver-gray with gold applied numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Just enough detail to make it interesting, but not enough to make you stare at it confused. On the dial you’ve got the day, month, 24-hour indication, moon phase, and a date subdial—all in perfect balance. It’s like Swiss graphic design in watch form.

Under the hood (or caseback if you’re being literal), you’ve got the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU. That’s Patek’s go-to annual calendar movement—one that only needs adjusting once a year in February. Yes, it’s that smart. And no, you don’t need to take it to your watch guy every other month.

This reference as I said will probably stick around for a while. Why? Because it works. Because it’s beautiful. And because not everything needs a reinvention to stay relevant. The 4946R is for people who understand that winning doesn’t always have to be complicated—even though, in this case, it low-key is.

Closing statement: No matter how many case sizes it gets or materials they make it with, I will always be a certified Cubitus hater. 

Stay tuned for the upcoming indie watch releases article and subscribe to the newsletter to get notified. 

I had so much fun writing this, I love you guys.

Walid Benla.