I kept going back to the Sero Signature more than I expected, and that’s a huge compliment. It’s one of those watches that only starts to make sense once you begin placing it against other things you already know, once you start measuring it mentally against references that defined this category in the first place. Not to say that it’s « du vu et revu » as in something we’ve seen before, but to hammer down my point that there’s a clear respect of the traditional way of doing things.

Because whether Sero intended it or not, this watch lives in a space that’s already been written. You don’t approach Breguet numerals, a slim manually wound profile, and a restrained case without inevitably entering the orbit of watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, the Vacheron Constantin ref. 6073, or even more modern reinterpretations like the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. Different price brackets, different intentions, but the same underlying language. Again, a compliment.

And that’s where the Signature becomes interesting. Not because it competes with those watches (it doesn’t) but because it clearly understands the framework they established.

The case proportions are the first indicator. 37.5mm is the easy number to read (sweet!), but the 46.5mm lug-to-lug is where the watch really positions itself. It stretches just enough to avoid that compact, almost fragile stance you get with smaller Calatrava-style pieces. It wears more like certain oversized references from the 40s, where lugs carried more visual weight and extended the watch across the wrist. It’s a subtle shift, but it changes the entire posture of the watch.

The 9.5mm thickness is exactly where it should be, and that’s largely due to the Sellita SW210-1. There’s nothing mind blowing about that movement, but from a construction standpoint, it’s coherent. Around 3.35mm in height, manual winding, stable architecture. It allows the case to remain slim without forcing the watch into ultra-thin territory, which often introduces compromises in durability or water resistance; AKA having to take it off to wash your hand. The 100 meters rating here is not just a spec, it tells you the case has been built with actual use in mind. 

But to get into the main part, the dial is where Sero takes a more deliberate position.

Engraving the numerals directly into the dial instead of printing or applying them changes the reading entirely. From a horological perspective, you move from surface decoration to taking away from the material itself. The numerals exist as negative space, and that means light behaves differently. You don’t get the crisp contrast of printed lacquer or the shadow line of applied markers. Instead, you get something more variable, more dependent on angle and intensity.

This is closer, in spirit, to how traditional guilloché dials interact with light, although achieved through machining rather than hand-turned patterns. The vertical brushing underneath adds a directional grain, which keeps the dial from becoming too static while maintaining control over reflections. It’s a measured approach. 

The consistency of execution is what stands out here. The chemin de fer, the numerals, even the signature text all follow the same engraved logic. That avoids the common issue where different techniques compete on the same dial, printed tracks next to applied markers next to stamped logos. Here, everything is resolved within the same surface.

The handset is another area where the watch holds together, and honestly the first thing I noticed. Heat-blued spade hands, correctly dimensioned, doing exactly what they’re supposed to do. The minute hand reaches the track with precision, which is something you’d expect, but not something you always get. The hour hand sits cleanly within the numeral ring, and the seconds hand remains visually light. 

It’s basic watchmaking discipline, but it’s often where watches lose coherence.

Looking at the different dial configurations, the variations don’t try to reinvent the watch. The silver and champagne dials stay closest to classical references, where the engraving becomes more subtle and the watch reads almost like a study in restraint, to be a little more poetic. The blue dial increases contrast and sharpens the overall presence, pushing it slightly closer to contemporary tastes.

The red dial is the outlier, but it still respects the underlying architecture, which keeps it from feeling disconnected. A little different, but different strokes for different folks.

Now, where the Signature really needs to be placed is in its price segment. At around €1,100 to €1,200, it sits in a very competitive space. You’re looking at watches like the Nomos Tangente, the Longines Heritage Classic, vintage Omegas…

Most of those watches take a different route. Nomos focuses on Bauhaus minimalism and in-house calibres, Longines leans heavily into archival design, vintage Omega Genèves are iconic and reliable. Sero doesn’t really sit directly with any of them. It’s closer to what smaller independent or collector-driven brands have been trying to do in recent years, tightening classical codes rather than reinterpreting them.

That’s also where the watch finds a bit of cultural relevance. There’s been a clear shift in the last few years, especially among younger collectors, away from oversized, overly expressive pieces toward something more controlled. Not necessarily vintage, but informed by it. The Signature fits into that movement as a very clear participant.

That doesn’t make it perfect. The “Signature” text still feels slightly more present than it needs to be when you look at how low-key everything else is, and the longer lug-to-lug will not work for every wrist. But when you place it where it actually belongs, within that €1,000 segment, against watches that often get one or two things right and miss the rest, the Signature holds together in a way that’s harder to dismiss.

What was interesting, and something that came up in conversation with Sergino, the founder, after I shared my thoughts, is that none of this is accidental. The positioning, the proportions, even the way the watch sits in this slightly uncomfortable but very deliberate space, it’s all been thought through.

And that also reflects in how they’re bringing it to market. The initial presale starts just under the €1,000 mark, with the first pieces at €899 before taxes, then €999 during the two-week window, before settling at €1,199 retail. It’s a detail worth mentioning because, at that earlier entry point, the watch shifts slightly in how you evaluate it. You’re no longer just comparing it to its immediate peers, you’re looking at it against a much broader field, and in that context, the level of attention given to proportions, dial execution, and overall coherence becomes harder to overlook.

If I were to discribe it in 1 word, I’d say traditional.

Check them out here.

Microbrands are about the only thing in this world that still gives me goosebumps. Bonus points if the microbrand is Japanese. So you can deduce the emotions I got after getting my hands on one of KUOE KYOTO’s best looking watches.

There’s a lot to be said here. A lot of emotions as I said, a lot of opinions and a lot of conclusions. So allow me today to talk about KUOE and their first dive watch, the SOMBRERO 90-011.

You guys know me well enough to know that I like to put things in context. So how about a little background about the brand and its beginnings ? 

From Kuoe’s website, we can understand that the origin of the KUOE brand and concept dates back to 2010.

Mr. Kenji Uchimura, the designer and founder, was a university student studying language in London, England when he just so happened to enter a shop that was handling antique watches.

There was a line-up of hand-wound watches from the 1940s – ‘70s. He was instantly drawn to them and their ability to keep time even after the rich accumulation of history in the decades that had passed. Although the watches were antiques, they somehow felt warm and refreshing, and were naturally appealing to wear on the wrist.

There, in that shop, Mr. Uchimura found the strong appeal of classic design, and realized that something that is truly classic is loved and revered universally around the world and across generations. Deeply influenced by this experience, he was inspired to create a classic design watch brand of his own.

After graduating university, Uchimura began working for a watch company in Kyoto –a city steeped in Japanese tradition. For a few years, he gained experience in the business and learned more about watches until he was ready to launch a sub-brand which was dedicated to his idea of introducing the classic design he had seen in those antiques in London into new models of wristwatches.

 In 2020, he was finally able to establish his own classic watch brand, KUOE. The first model, Old Smith 90-001 in April. 

Other iconic models include the sleek but robust Old Smith 90-002. Inspired by British military watches from the 1940s to 1970s, the piece features a 35mm case, thick Arabic numerals, and luminous hands. It houses a Seiko NH35A automatic movement and is available in various dial colors, including Dark Navy, Black, Deep Green, and Ivory.

Can’t forget about the Royal Smith 90-006, or what I call the proper gentleman’s watch. The Royal Smith 90-006 is considered KUOE’s premium offering, featuring a 35mm case and a dial with a traditional Japanese “Waffle” texture. It is powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement, which makes it an upgrade on the 006 model line, and has been even more popular than its predecessor.

Okay but what does the public think ? 

KUOE KYOTO has received positive feedback from watch enthusiasts for its vintage-inspired designs, build quality, and value for money. More on that in a bit.

Collectors appreciate the brand’s attention to detail and the nostalgic appeal of its timepieces. The dimensions, the dials… These are keywords that are constantly repeated in client reviews. I mean just type the brand’s name on Reddit and you’ll see how peaceful and positive everybody is; something we never see on the platform… 

Let’s dig into the watch I now have on my wrist.

The Sombrero 90-011. 

The SOMBRERO 90-011 marks KUOE KYOTO’s entry into the dive watch category. Please keep this in mind while reading the rest of this article, because that’s SIGNIFICANT !

Named after the Sombrero Galaxy, the watch draws inspiration from the galaxy’s distinctive appearance, featuring a linen-textured dial and a compressor-style case.

  Quick spec rundown: 

• Case: Stainless steel with a diameter of 37mm, featuring a cushion-shaped design reminiscent of mid-century dive watches.​
  
• Dial: Available in various colors, this one in a distinctive green variant, with bold hour markers and a minute track for enhanced legibility.​

• Super-LumiNova hands and dial.
  
• Movement: Miyota Cal. 9039 Automatic. -10 to +30 seconds per day (23º± 2ºC)

• Water Resistance: 20 BAR or 200 Meters, designed to withstand water exposure, suitable for everyday wear and diving activities.
  
• Strap: Comes with a stainless steel bracelet (Flat link or Jubilee) and an additional leather strap.

MY OPINION AND PERSONAL REFLECTIONS: 

I really like this watch. 

And the whole brand if I’m being honest. I have been in close contact with the company’s media managers for more than 4 months now and that tells you something. I remember mentioning KUOE on my instagram story once and my DMs were flooded with messages along the lines of “Walid are you working with them ?”, “You need to reach out to them and review their watches”… And here we are now.

So, off the bat, that dial is absolutely mesmerizing. The linen texture is so rich and beautiful, especially when you get the chance to play with it under a sunray. Mamma Mia ! 

The credit should be given to the single-domed sapphire glass with AR coating and AF coating, for the transparency and ease of legibility. 

Speaking of that, the finishing on the case and the bracelet are very nice. I took a picture of a Matcha drink for my friend (Terrible drink by the way), and that bracelet was SHINING ! 

On the topic of first impressions, and as I mentioned before, the 38mm case wears smaller than you’d expect. BUT and here’s the catch, the bracelet does give it more definition of the wrist. It does come with a brown leather strap and let me tell you, it completely changes the perceived dimensions of the wrist. 

About that, bracelets and straps, one negative thing about the amazing piece that the Sombrero is, is the clasp. It’s huge. And might I even say, it can be uncomfortable. It really hurts me to say it, but that clasp needs an upgrade. Yes it has the quick adjustment option which comes handy throughout the day, but maybe something lighter, less chunky. 

Love the case, love the dial, love the flat links, love the finishing, love the crowns, love the Internal and bidirectional bezel, LOVE the unboxing experience and all the accessories… 

But should you get this watch ?

I mean, why not ? Priced at $‌859.00, it does have some competition but it certainly stands its ground. A sub 1000$ dive watch like the Sombrero is perfect for anybody trying to graduate from their G SHOCKs or Citizens. It’s well fitting, well designed, well proportioned and well, very practical. AND it’s from a Japanese brand that pays this much attention to details, so again, Why not ?  

*Bonus points for the incredible customer service

I don’t want to make this any longer and keep throwing my personal opinions on you guys, so please tell us what you personally think ! 

Check out KUOE KYOTO here, and see you later !

All the pictures are either ours or taken from https://www.kuoe-en.com/