I kept going back to the Sero Signature more than I expected, and that’s a huge compliment. It’s one of those watches that only starts to make sense once you begin placing it against other things you already know, once you start measuring it mentally against references that defined this category in the first place. Not to say that it’s « du vu et revu » as in something we’ve seen before, but to hammer down my point that there’s a clear respect of the traditional way of doing things.

Because whether Sero intended it or not, this watch lives in a space that’s already been written. You don’t approach Breguet numerals, a slim manually wound profile, and a restrained case without inevitably entering the orbit of watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, the Vacheron Constantin ref. 6073, or even more modern reinterpretations like the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. Different price brackets, different intentions, but the same underlying language. Again, a compliment.

And that’s where the Signature becomes interesting. Not because it competes with those watches (it doesn’t) but because it clearly understands the framework they established.

The case proportions are the first indicator. 37.5mm is the easy number to read (sweet!), but the 46.5mm lug-to-lug is where the watch really positions itself. It stretches just enough to avoid that compact, almost fragile stance you get with smaller Calatrava-style pieces. It wears more like certain oversized references from the 40s, where lugs carried more visual weight and extended the watch across the wrist. It’s a subtle shift, but it changes the entire posture of the watch.

The 9.5mm thickness is exactly where it should be, and that’s largely due to the Sellita SW210-1. There’s nothing mind blowing about that movement, but from a construction standpoint, it’s coherent. Around 3.35mm in height, manual winding, stable architecture. It allows the case to remain slim without forcing the watch into ultra-thin territory, which often introduces compromises in durability or water resistance; AKA having to take it off to wash your hand. The 100 meters rating here is not just a spec, it tells you the case has been built with actual use in mind. 

But to get into the main part, the dial is where Sero takes a more deliberate position.

Engraving the numerals directly into the dial instead of printing or applying them changes the reading entirely. From a horological perspective, you move from surface decoration to taking away from the material itself. The numerals exist as negative space, and that means light behaves differently. You don’t get the crisp contrast of printed lacquer or the shadow line of applied markers. Instead, you get something more variable, more dependent on angle and intensity.

This is closer, in spirit, to how traditional guilloché dials interact with light, although achieved through machining rather than hand-turned patterns. The vertical brushing underneath adds a directional grain, which keeps the dial from becoming too static while maintaining control over reflections. It’s a measured approach. 

The consistency of execution is what stands out here. The chemin de fer, the numerals, even the signature text all follow the same engraved logic. That avoids the common issue where different techniques compete on the same dial, printed tracks next to applied markers next to stamped logos. Here, everything is resolved within the same surface.

The handset is another area where the watch holds together, and honestly the first thing I noticed. Heat-blued spade hands, correctly dimensioned, doing exactly what they’re supposed to do. The minute hand reaches the track with precision, which is something you’d expect, but not something you always get. The hour hand sits cleanly within the numeral ring, and the seconds hand remains visually light. 

It’s basic watchmaking discipline, but it’s often where watches lose coherence.

Looking at the different dial configurations, the variations don’t try to reinvent the watch. The silver and champagne dials stay closest to classical references, where the engraving becomes more subtle and the watch reads almost like a study in restraint, to be a little more poetic. The blue dial increases contrast and sharpens the overall presence, pushing it slightly closer to contemporary tastes.

The red dial is the outlier, but it still respects the underlying architecture, which keeps it from feeling disconnected. A little different, but different strokes for different folks.

Now, where the Signature really needs to be placed is in its price segment. At around €1,100 to €1,200, it sits in a very competitive space. You’re looking at watches like the Nomos Tangente, the Longines Heritage Classic, vintage Omegas…

Most of those watches take a different route. Nomos focuses on Bauhaus minimalism and in-house calibres, Longines leans heavily into archival design, vintage Omega Genèves are iconic and reliable. Sero doesn’t really sit directly with any of them. It’s closer to what smaller independent or collector-driven brands have been trying to do in recent years, tightening classical codes rather than reinterpreting them.

That’s also where the watch finds a bit of cultural relevance. There’s been a clear shift in the last few years, especially among younger collectors, away from oversized, overly expressive pieces toward something more controlled. Not necessarily vintage, but informed by it. The Signature fits into that movement as a very clear participant.

That doesn’t make it perfect. The “Signature” text still feels slightly more present than it needs to be when you look at how low-key everything else is, and the longer lug-to-lug will not work for every wrist. But when you place it where it actually belongs, within that €1,000 segment, against watches that often get one or two things right and miss the rest, the Signature holds together in a way that’s harder to dismiss.

What was interesting, and something that came up in conversation with Sergino, the founder, after I shared my thoughts, is that none of this is accidental. The positioning, the proportions, even the way the watch sits in this slightly uncomfortable but very deliberate space, it’s all been thought through.

And that also reflects in how they’re bringing it to market. The initial presale starts just under the €1,000 mark, with the first pieces at €899 before taxes, then €999 during the two-week window, before settling at €1,199 retail. It’s a detail worth mentioning because, at that earlier entry point, the watch shifts slightly in how you evaluate it. You’re no longer just comparing it to its immediate peers, you’re looking at it against a much broader field, and in that context, the level of attention given to proportions, dial execution, and overall coherence becomes harder to overlook.

If I were to discribe it in 1 word, I’d say traditional.

Check them out here.

I didn’t start paying attention to Lebond because of a launch, a price point, or a promotional Instagram reel. I paid attention because the brand felt… quiet? And in today’s watch landscape, quiet is rare as heck. Especially when the brand has more to it than just being a watch brand, hence the title.

Lebond is a young independent brand founded by Asier Mateo, and that matters. You can feel the difference between a project born from a marketing plan and one born from a personal background. In this case, architecture is the foundation. That doesn’t mean every watch looks like a building. It means decisions are made structurally, not decoratively. (Another reason for me to flex my architecture background).

After spending some time exploring the brand, something became clear: Lebond is not trying to enter the watchmaking industry. It’s trying to occupy a position closer to design culture than to traditional horological posturing. And I LOVE that for them.

Okay let’s get into the brand. There are currently two pillars in the Lebond universe: Attraction and Siza. That’s it. And that restraint already tells you a lot.

The Attraction, is the conceptual core. Inspired by Antoni Gaudí’s unbuilt Hotel Attraction project, it’s the watch where Lebond allowed itself to be the most expressive. Soft titanium case, disc-based display, strong architectural logic. It’s the piece that explains why the brand exists.

But what interested me after spending time on the brand’s website is the Siza. Because that’s where you understand that Lebond is not a one-idea studio.

The Siza is named after Álvaro Siza, and the watch reflects exactly what you’d expect if you know his work. It’s quieter. More rectilinear. More disciplined. Stainless steel case, slimmer profile, conventional hands, but still a very deliberate use of negative space. The typography is calm. The proportions are carefully balanced. Nothing is trying to be clever.

Side note (and I sincerely apologize for making this way too personal), whenever Álvaro Siza is mentioned, expect an unsolicited amount of fan girling from yours truly. You do not want to know about my 6 months project analysis project on his Huamao Museum of Art Education.

Okay let’s get back to Lebond. If the Attraction is about speculative architecture, the Siza is about lived architecture. Buildings you inhabit without noticing until you start paying attention.

What both watches share is a rejection of excess. Case sizes are reasonable. Finishes are controlled. Movements are chosen for reliability and thinness. ETA for that Swiss spice. 

What I appreciate most is that Lebond doesn’t hide behind the “independent brand” narrative. There’s no attempt to artificially dramatize production numbers or craftsmanship. The watches are well made, thoughtfully designed, and positioned honestly. That’s it. No myth-building required. 

A design studio designing like a design studio should.

Lebond feels closer to furniture design, industrial design, or even publishing than to traditional Swiss watchmaking. I mean that as a compliment actually. Just look at their packaging !

The pricing reflects that mindset. Lebond is not trying to be disruptive through undercutting, nor aspirational through artificial scarcity. The watches are priced where they should be given the materials, design work, and production quality. You’re paying for coherence, not for status signaling.

The conversation with Asier felt natural from the start. When someone builds from a personal place, the dialogue is easier. You’re not negotiating narratives, you’re exchanging references.

Lebond doesn’t feel like a brand in a hurry. And that’s probably its biggest strength. In a market obsessed with visibility, choosing to carve your own way is almost radical.

I’ll keep watching what they do. Slowly. On their terms. And that already says enough.

Sitting between design and horology, that’s what I’ve been desperately craving to see from new independent brands.

Beda’a — the Qatari and now London based watch brand — just released their new Angles-Stone collection. I’ve wrote previously about their Angles Mecaline collection and my experience with my personal Black “Onyx dial” model. 

And if you go read that article, you’ll find out just how much I’ve been obsessed with that watch. Heck, I’m even wearing it now, on the road to some meetings. 

The Stone Collection however is something special. The Angles is getting 4 new configurations with 4 new stone dials: Malachite, Aventurine, Tiger Eye and African Hawk Eye. Beautiful. 

The new collection is not just an upgrade on the aesthetics, the technical side did get a few changes. 

First thing is the movement. The mecaline, as its name, suggests is mechanical AKA hand wound. The Angles-Stone is quartz, hence the lack of the small seconds subdial. More specifically, it uses a RONDA 1062.1 SLIMTECH. 

I make the comparison because these watches look the same, and I myself was a little surprised by the difference in the movement choice. 

But some private insight tells me that it could potentially join the mechanical path.

Other than that, Togo leather rather than Epsom leather is quite interesting in this context because let’s not forget that this collection is about being grounded and rugged, so to speak. 

My thoughts and feelings? 

Honestly ? I’m happy that the Angles collection keeps evolving and expanding. Beda’a has a great thing going on and I think it’s their canvas for being as creative as possible. They recently made a diamond edition (natural btw) with alligator straps, and this is exactly what I’m talking about.

Beda’a became what it is or who they are by having great designs. So they might as well design as much as they can. 

As for my personal favorite. That African Hawk Eye is as niche as it gets. Brown undertones with all that texture. It really does scratch the itch. 

Check out the full collection on Bedaawatches.com

I don’t usually write about jewelry watches. Not because I dislike them, but because most of them don’t survive five minutes of serious horological scrutiny. They tend to sit in a comfortable but weird zone where “craftsmanship” is mentioned more than it is demonstrated, and where decoration is applied rather than integrated.
Simon Brette is one of the very few contemporary watchmakers who forced me to reconsider that position.

What initially caught my attention with Brette was not the visual impact of his Chronomètre Artisans watches, but the intellectual structure behind them. There is a clarity of intent and purpose that immediately separates his work from the current wave of independent “expressive” watchmaking: Nothing feels decorative for the sake of seduction.

Simon Brette comes from a serious horological background. Restoration, movement construction, high-end independent environments, and a long exposure to traditional chronometry. This matters because it explains why his watches are built from the inside out. The Chronomètre Artisans project is not a design exercise wrapped around a movement. It is a mechanical project that intentionally invites other crafts to intervene without compromising its core. That’s my architecture background speaking, by the way.

At its foundation, the Chronomètre Artisans movement is a manually wound calibre designed with classical chronometric principles in mind. Large balance, stable frequency, clear gear train architecture…. The finishing is deliberate and controlled. Anglage is present but not exaggerated. Black polishing is used generously.

What makes Brette’s Joaillerie pieces particularly interesting is that they do not treat decoration as an external layer. Engraving, gem-setting, and surface treatment are conceived alongside the case and movement, not added afterward. This is a crucial distinction. Too often, jewelry watches feel like a finished watch that someone decided to embellish. Here, the decorative crafts actively shape the object.

Each Joaillerie piece is unique, not as a marketing statement, but because repetition would contradict the process itself. Engraving patterns are drawn specifically for each case. Stone selection responds to those engravings. The setting techniques adapt to the geometry and thickness of the metal. There is no modularity. There is no scalability. This is slow, expensive, and fundamentally incompatible with volume-driven logic.

What impressed me most is Brette’s restraint. These watches could easily have fallen into excess. They didn’t. And we know about many who did. The gem-setting is precise and disciplined. Stones are chosen for color harmony and structural rhythm; the engravings are deep, architectural, and purposeful. There is no narrative overload, no symbolic storytelling forced onto the object. The watch is allowed to stand on its construction.

This approach places Brette in a very specific position within contemporary independent watchmaking. He is not trying to reinvent horology. He is not chasing disruption. He is quietly re-establishing a hierarchy of priorities where mechanics come first, crafts serve structure, and aesthetics emerge as a consequence rather than a goal.

Culturally, this matters. We live in a period when independent watchmaking is often evaluated by its visibility and shock value. Brette’s work resists that logic. His watches are an acquired taste. They require observation rather than instant reaction.

This is also why writing about his Joaillerie pieces felt relevant within the framework of my new art magazine, Ariste. Ariste exists to explore objects that don’t fit neatly into predefined categories. Brette’s watches belong exactly there. They are not purely horological objects, nor are they jewelry in the conventional sense. They are constructed works, born from technical discipline and aesthetic restraint.

Simon Brette represents a form of independence that is often overlooked: one rooted in method rather than attitude. His Chronomètre Artisans Joaillerie pieces are not statements about luxury or creativity. They are demonstrations of control. Control over technique, over collaboration, and over when to stop.

I have always had a soft spot for brands that meant more than they showed.

 In a landscape where excess is often interpreted as legitimacy, Baume & Mercier has historically done something unfashionable: it stayed within reason. That reasonableness is often mistaken for timidity, or worse, irrelevance. In reality, it is far more difficult to sustain than provoke. Writing about Baume & Mercier today requires resisting the temptation to either nostalgically inflate its past or artificially dramatize its present. Neither is necessary.

The timing of this article matters. Baume & Mercier is at an inflection point, not because of a product launch, but because of a change in ownership that forces a re-evaluation of what the brand has been, what it became, and what it is allowed to be going forward. 

The acquisition by the Damiani Group is a structural event.

To understand its implications, one must first understand the long arc of the brand, and the particular role it has played in Swiss watchmaking for nearly two centuries.

Let’s look at the temporary first (the Damiani acquisition), then dig deep into those centuries of horological prowess.

When Richemont announced the sale of Baume & Mercier to the Damiani Group, the industry response was measured, which in itself is revealing. This was not a fire sale, but a recalibration. Under Richemont, Baume & Mercier occupied a peculiar but deliberate position. It was the group’s entry point into Swiss luxury watchmaking, positioned below the technical and artisanal heavyweights, but anchored in real heritage nevertheless. That positioning, while strategically understandable on paper, became increasingly difficult to defend in a market where the mid-luxury segment was being attacked simultaneously from below by aggressively priced independents and from above by aspirational icons. 

Look at Baume & Mercier like your regular Joe in today’s economy.

In my humble opinion, for Richemont the question was not whether Baume & Mercier lacked legitimacy. It was whether the group still had the structural patience to nurture a brand whose value proposition relied on balance not dominance. The answer, eventually, was no. We all know the Bernard family’s business spirit… even the Patek acquisition is a matter of time nowadays.

For Damiani, this business move is fundamentally different. This is a group whose identity has been built on Italian craftsmanship, emotional luxury, and a strong retail footprint rather than industrial scale watchmaking. Acquiring Baume & Mercier is not about absorbing a watch manufacture into an existing horological ecosystem. It is about adding a Swiss timekeeping pillar to a broader luxury narrative. Culturally, this matters. Strategically, it frees Baume & Mercier from internal comparisons it was never meant to win.

This move does not by any means signal a push toward haute horlogerie. It signals clarity and stability. Baume & Mercier is no longer required to justify its existence within a portfolio of overachievers. It is now asked to be coherent and most importantly itself.

But Where was Baume & Mercier Before the Sale ?

Before the acquisition, Baume & Mercier was stable, respected, and constrained. The brand was doing many things correctly: consistent design language, solid movements, reliable pricing, and one genuinely important technical step forward with the Baumatic calibre. What it lacked was narrative. Not because the story was weak, but because it wasn’t sticking out.

Under Richemont, Baume & Mercier often served as a bridge brand. That role comes with advantages, but also with limitations. Innovation had to be measured. Risks had to be contained. Identity had to remain broad enough to welcome first-time buyers without alienating existing clients. The result was a brand that rarely failed, but also rarely provoked serious debate. And in today’s market, that is a dangerous place to sit. Think of it as a mall brand…

Let’s Reminisce About The Good Ol’ Days.

Baume & Mercier was founded in 1830 by the Baume brothers in the Swiss Jura. Long before the modern luxury industry existed, the brand built its reputation on chronometric precision and international reach, particularly through its London branch, which served the British Empire. The partnership with Paul Mercier in 1918 marked a shift toward design direction and day-to-day elegance, placing the brand firmly within the Geneva tradition.

The Geneva Seal awarded in 1919 confirms that Baume & Mercier was once judged by the same technical and finishing standards as houses that later became untouchable icons. The brand’s historical role is a sort of stabilizer. It absorbed stylistic movements, technical norms, and cultural shifts, and translated them into watches that made sense to wear.

That role should not be underestimated. We all need that good reliable watch.

And with that came the icons.

Riviera 1973

The Riviera is the most misunderstood watch in Baume & Mercier’s history, largely because it arrived at the wrong time to be mythologized correctly. Introduced in 1973, the Riviera is one of the earliest steel sports watches with a distinct shaped bezel and integrated bracelet. Its twelve-sided bezel was architectural, designed to give the watch identity within that 70s Genta era.

Technically, early Rivieras relied on reliable automatic movements. The Riviera was never meant to compete on complication. It competed on relevance and wearability. As I mentioned earlier, it sits comfortably alongside other early steel sports watches of the era, but without the hypr that followed its peers. Its recent revival works precisely because the original concept was never stretched beyond its limits.

Classima 1960s onward

Classima is not a single reference, but an idea that matured into a collection. Emerging from Baume & Mercier’s long tradition of round, restrained dress watches, Classima represents the brand’s most consistent expression of proportion and understatement. An easy to wear gentleman’s dress watch, that’s it.

From a horological standpoint, Classima models used proven automatic and manual movements, prioritizing thinness and legibility. Their importance lies in, again, how easy they are to be worn and be lived with. This is like a Patrimony from Vacheron or early time-only Patek Calatravas ref. 96.

Capeland late 1990s

Capeland marks Baume & Mercier’s attempt to engage with sportier, more masculine watchmaking without abandoning elegance. Introduced in the late 1990s, the line incorporated chronographs, GMTs, and more assertive case profiles. Technically, these watches relied on well-regarded ébauches, often modified, rather than in-house.

The importance of the Capeland is “cultural” rather than mechanical. It reflects a period where Baume & Mercier tested the elasticity of its identity. And the 90s was just the era actually.Some executions were more convincing than others, but the collection demonstrated that the brand could expand without embarrassing itself.

Hampton 1994

Hampton is where Baume & Mercier leaned fully into design. Introduced in 1994, the rectangular case, inspired by Art Deco architecture, was distinguishable. It was a shaped watch committing to proportion.

From a technical perspective, Hampton models were straightforward. Their strength lay in case construction, dial layout, and wearability. Think of it as a Cartier Tank Americaine with a bit more spice.

Clifton 2013 and the Baumatic Era

Clifton initially presented itself as a modern classic, drawing from mid-century cues without nostalgia (Mad Men). Its true importance emerged with the introduction of the Baumatic calibre in 2018. This movement represents the most significant technical investment Baume & Mercier has made in decades.

The movement:

With a five-day power reserve, silicon escapement components (for ease of servicing), improved antimagnetic resistance, and extended service intervals, the Baumatic was intelligent and for the intelligent gentleman. It addressed real-world concerns. It also repositioned Baume & Mercier as a brand capable of meaningful technical decisions without doing too much.

This is where the brand subtly regained credibility among informed collectors.

These are obviously not all the brand’s models and important references, here’s a cool selection of watches from Baume & Mercier’s vast and rich catalog.

Baume & Mercier has never been about trends and hype. And the Damiani acquisition does not rewrite the brand’s history or diminishes it. It actually clarifies it. Freed from the need to compete internally within a watchmaking conglomerate, the brand has the opportunity to sharpen its voice. And let’s be honest, a brand like this belongs within that Italian spirit of valuing quality basics. Tiktok does not have to ruin everything guys.

And let me be clear,there is space in horology for brands that do not shout, that do not chase extremes, that understand their role and execute it with discipline. Baume & Mercier has done this before. The question now is not whether it can reinvent itself, but whether it can finally commit to being exactly what it is.

More brand and reference deep dives will follow. That’s the 2026 spirit, valuing what matters not what’s trending.

I have always believed that true watchmaking begins long before a movement is chosen. It starts with intention. With a reason to exist that goes beyond filling a price point or following a trend. I am naturally drawn to watches that know why they are here. Not because they are loud or technically inflated, but because they feel considered. Honest in what they try to express and disciplined in how they go about it. That is where my respect begins. And that is why the Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte resonated with me almost immediately.

This is also the first time Time Telling Magazine works with and covers a Venezianico watch, and that matters. We are careful with the brands we choose to align ourselves with. Not everything needs to be covered, and not every watch deserves a platform. Venezianico felt like a brand we genuinely want to be associated with. There is a clarity to what they are doing, a cultural grounding that feels real rather than manufactured, and that made the decision straightforward.

I unboxed the Bellanotte at home, in a quiet moment, with my girlfriend and business partner, who’s also the person responsible for the beautiful photographs highlighting the watch’s charm. 

She has seen enough watches come through my hands to know when something is just another object and when it is something else. Her reaction was immediate and unfiltered. A short pause, then a genuine gasp. Not because of a logo or a complication, but because the dial felt like a scene rather than a surface. That moment confirmed what I was already sensing. This watch communicates visually, even to someone who is not looking at it through an expert lens.

The more time I spent with it, the more that impression settled in. The Bellanotte does certainly rely on instant impact. And then, you start noticing how it is built: 

The dial is structured, layered, and restrained. The aventurine background behaves like a real night sky. Throughout the day, as the light changed, it shifted subtly on the wrist. Indoors it felt almost matte and quiet. Outside, it came alive without ever becoming loud.

The off center time display in mother of pearl turned out to be one of my favorite details in daily use. It catches the light just enough to remain legible though its size, but it never pulls your attention away from the rest of the dial. During a busy day moving between meetings, cafés, and streets, checking the time felt secondary. The watch was more often noticed by others than consulted by me, which says a lot about where its strength lies.

That day, the amount of attention it attracted surprised me. Not the usual watch conversations about brands or price, but real curiosity. People leaned in. They asked what they were looking at. Friends who are art collectors and gallery owners were particularly struck by it. They didn’t talk about watches at all. They talked about composition, depth, and narrative. About how the bas relief architecture creates perspective, how the monuments of Venice are read through light and shadow rather than lines. One of them mentioned it felt closer to a miniature sculptural piece than a traditional dial, and that observation stayed with me, as an architecture student.

In terms of proportions, the Bellanotte fits exactly where I need it to. At 40mm, this is as big as I am willing to go. I have small wrists and I am unforgiving when it comes to balance. This watch wears clean and composed. It never feels oversized or performative. It sits comfortably and disappears when you want it to. Especially for someone like me who dresses in tailored clothing. Nobody wants a lump on their wrist…

The movement inside, Automatic Cal. Seiko NH05A, does its job without demanding attention, and I appreciate that honesty. It is reliable, compact, and chosen to support the design rather than compete with it, seeing that its am “ulta-thin” movement.

This collaboration happened thanks to Elena, the marketing manager at Venezianico, who immediately understood our editorial direction and our values. There was no need to exaggerate the story or reshape the watch to fit a narrative. The alignment was natural, and those are the relationships I value most, as the magazine’s president.

Another thank you goes to my friend @thewatchcaliber for his generosity and kindness.

Here are the Specs of the Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte:

CASE MATERIAL: 316L Stainless Steel

FEATURES: Off-center dial

MATERIALS: Aventurine, mother-of-pearl, brass

DIMENSIONS: Ø40mm, 46.7mm lug to lug, 11.5mm thickness

MOVEMENT: Automatic Cal. Seiko NH05A

CRYSTAL: Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating

BEZEL: 316L Stainless steel

WR: 5ATM (=50mt)

STRAP: Genuine leather, Made in Italy

Price: 700€

By definition, a Pièce Unique or Unique piece is a “Watch produced in a single example, usually created on commission or for special events.”
So when Dr. Abdulaziz first sent me a photo of his Pièce Unique in his hand: A warm, amber dial with four horses frozen mid-stride, I felt the same thing I get when a good story starts to rearrange itself in my head.
I know enough about watchmaking to recognise a thoughtful execution: 38mm, 9mm thick, domed sapphire, an NH35 automatic inside, the sort of compact, honest package that lets a dial do the talking. But I didn’t yet know the whole story behind the art on that face, or how that art had grown from friendship into a little business of feeling and craft.

Arnaud, the maker behind L’Artisan d’Horlogerie, is precisely the kind of person who makes that possible. His Instagram and site show what he’s been quietly obsessed with for years: stone and fossil dials, tiny landscapes, and textures cut from geological time. You’ll see dinosaur-bone slices, lapis, tiger eye, and other unusual materials rendered into round micro-portraits for the wrist. It’s all there in his online presence: process reels, close-ups of banded stone, and the occasional prototype coming to life.

That’s the practical side. The thing that actually hooked Abdulaziz, and kept me listening to their story, was the personal. When they spoke about the two watches they made together, they weren’t riffing on lume or bevel angles. They were talking about family, memory, and a visual language that tied someone to a place. One of the two dials is this horse tableau on an amber field, warm, primitive, and somehow ceremonial. The other is a cooler, vivid composition: a blue field with three horses in the foreground, a building in the background, and a cluster of palm-like forms that read like memory and geography layered in paint.

Arnaud made both dials by hand, starting from sketches and material hunts. The materials matter: Arnaud’s work has always been about finding unusual raw things and coaxing them into wearable art, dinosaur bone, and tiger-iron pieces that are fragile, wasteful to cut, and breathtaking when they survive the process. The result is always a one-off or a tiny run. That’s the point: they’re intimate, uneven, and irreplaceable. You can see this aesthetic across his feeds and shop; the stone dials are the signature.

Abdulaziz’s two watches are a study in contrast and complement. The amber-hued dial reads like an heirloom: ochres and rusts arranged into silhouettes of four horses that could be carved out of a textile or painted on a fresco. It sits inside a compact, conservative case, 38mm across, 9mm thin, topped with a domed sapphire crystal, which keeps the drama on the face where it belongs. The movement is the NH35, a practical, reliable automatic chosen because the case couldn’t accommodate Arnaud’s newer, slimmer micro-rotor ideas; it keeps the piece honest and wearable, a little utilitarian so that the dial’s voice is never competing with technical showmanship.

The second dial is story-driven in a way that the first one only hints at. Here, there are three horses again, but their colours are saturated: a red, a blue, and a golden figure, placed in front of an architectural element and a palm or floral motif that reads like a cultural emblem. In their conversations, Abdulaziz explained how the four horses motif, which appears in other parts of the project’s design universe, ties back to family roles and cultural identity: four siblings, different personalities, a shared set of values; the national museum and the desert; a grandfather’s shop and a father’s memory. These are visuals that mean something, not just pretty pictures. They’re personal heraldry translated into tiny, circular paintings on stone. Those ideas are in the audio: the dials are cultural maps, and the watches are the vehicles carrying them. (You can see photos that Abdulaziz shared; his images make clear there are two distinct designs, each treated with care and storytelling intent.)

What I find compelling is how the technical choices bow to that storytelling. Arnaud could have chosen to over-engineer: exotic movements, showy cases, impossible finishing. Instead, he deliberately used a modest case profile and a dependable NH35 movement for Abdulaziz’s piece, leaving the dial to become the centre of attention. That decision, simplicity in service of meaning, says as much about the maker as the imagery itself. Arnaud’s Instagram and site show this pattern: craft that elevates unusual materials without overcomplicating the watch’s practicality.

There is another layer: how the friendship shaped the object. This began as friends riffing on ideas, not as a commission with a spec sheet. Abdulaziz didn’t walk in and demand a logo or a trend-driven hue; he brought memory, symbols and a trust that allowed Arnaud to interpret. In the studio the conversations became sketches, then scaled maquettes, then dial slices cut and polished until the images held the weight of the story. Arnaud told me about the losses in the cutting process (especially with fossils and delicate stones) and the way each success felt like a small miracle. He’s an obsessive with a craftsman’s patience, the kind of guy who will cut three different rough stones just to find the one that carries the exact red or banding he wants.

And there was beauty in their process: Abdulaziz’s cultural references, the museum’s architecture, the family horses, the desert colours, found a gentle interpreter in Arnaud’s hands. The watches became portraits of a friendship that had already started to move into business, a slow pivot from collectors’ chat to a real, collaborative practice. That transition felt natural because both men value the same rare thing: honesty. They were not trying to make a marketable halo piece. They were trying to make something honest for both of them.

There’s a practical lesson here, too: independent watchmaking is not only about inventing a movement or photogenic numerals. It’s about translating life into objects. One of the watches uses a humble, robust NH35 inside a compact 9mm-thick case with a domed sapphire, choices that ensure daily wear without compromising the soul of the design. The other dial speaks through imagery and colour, architecture, horses, personal iconography, and the watch becomes a conversation starter rather than a billboard.

If you look at Arnaud’s social footprint, you’ll see how this work fits a broader practice. L’Artisan is already known for stone dials and tiny series that sing because they are rare and tactile. The pieces for Abdulaziz sit comfortably in that lineage: singular, narrative-driven, slightly eccentric in the best way.

I’ve always thought the best collaborations are friendships that have learned to work together. This one feels that way: a collector and a maker who learned each other’s languages, who let small practicalities (case size, movement choice) bend to a larger aesthetic conversation, and who let cultural memory sit at the centre of the watch. When Abdulaziz wears the amber dial, you see something more than a timekeeper on his wrist; you see a small, wearable archive of family, time, and place. When he shows the blue, populated dial in its box, it reads as a miniature mural, a story paused in a second.

In a world that applauds shouty limited editions and technical flexes, making yours represents another type of horological superiority. They’re the sort of pieces that age in meaning, not just in patina. They are the product of a friendship that grew into a practice, and when the maker posts the cutting process on Instagram, or when Abdulaziz shares a wrist shot in a white thobe, you feel the lineage: two people making time into something that actually says something.

If you want to see the work yourself, Arnaud’s posts are a living sketchbook: raw stones, rehearsal sketches, and slow reveals of dials that survived the cut. But here’s the thing I keep thinking about: you don’t need to scroll to understand why this matters.

Some watches arrive with the whole fanfare of a launch, press releases flying around, and a dozen Instagram reels ready to flood your feed. Others? They slip into your life through something far better: friendship. That’s how the Anders & Co AC2 Volcán in Bronze Jade landed on my wrist, before the rest of the world even saw it. The brand’s founder gave me an early look, and from that first moment, I knew this one was going to stick.

The Volcán isn’t loud or over-designed; it’s confident enough not to scream for attention. The bronze case immediately sets the stage. Warm, alive, destined to patinate over time (which is already happening as we speak). But the real show is the dial. Jade, not just “green.” Natural stone that feels rich, layered, and unpredictable. In some light, it’s deep forest; in others, a lighter glow, like it’s breathing under the sapphire. It makes you look twice, and then again, because no two moments on the wrist feel identical. That’s not marketing fluff, that’s the kind of subtle detail collectors dream about.

At 37mm across and just 5.65mm slim, the Volcán wears like it was designed to disappear under your cuff and reappear just when someone asks, “Wait, what are you wearing?” That thinness comes thanks to a Miyota quartz tucked inside. Some purists will sniff at quartz, but in this case, it’s the right call. The movement keeps the watch razor-slim, maintenance-free, and honest. This isn’t a piece pretending to be a tool watch, it’s a refined daily companion, happy to follow you from a coffee shop to a dinner without fuss.

Living with bronze is always a story in itself. Fresh out of the box, it shines warm and crisp. Weeks later, it starts to darken, soften, and carry your life on its surface. Pair that with jade, and the watch feels alive, evolving. It’s the kind of watch you don’t just wear, you grow into it. And that feels very Anders & Co.A family based on continuit, just like I said about the AC1.

Of course, watches like this can’t live in a vacuum; pricing always comes into play. The Bronze Jade Volcán is set at 6,700 SEK (roughly €600 or a bit over $600 depending on where you’re based). In today’s microbrand scene, that puts it in interesting company. Plenty of brands at that price point offer stainless-steel cases with sunburst dials and maybe a Miyota automatic. Few give you a natural stone dial, bronze case, and this level of finishing. Against other microbrand dress-leaning pieces, the Volcán feels different,more personal, more intentional.

And that’s exactly why this watch works. It doesn’t try to be everything to everyone. It just delivers texture, character, and wearability in a package that feels rare at this price point. For us at Time-Telling Magazine, the Volcán Bronze Jade is more than just another microbrand release. It’s a reminder of why we do this: because watches are personal, because friendships shape this hobby, and because sometimes the best pieces don’t just launch, they arrive as secrets shared between friends.

In the esteemed landscape of German watchmaking, a new name has emerged, marking a fresh chapter in a legacy spanning nearly two centuries. 

And as a huge advocate for getting German watchmaking the attention it deserves, seeing young Glashütte-based brands emerge and stay true to their roots makes our ever so boring hobby more exciting.

Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte (DUG), launched in December 2024, represents the eleventh manufactory to join the ranks in Glashütte – the German horological Mecca. This brand is built on a foundational respect for the traditional craftsmanship and exacting standards that have long defined Glashütte watches, while embracing a forward-thinking approach to make these exceptional timepieces more accessible to a contemporary audience. DUG’s vision is to bridge the heritage of traditional artistry with the efficiency of modern digital channels (being cool AF), offering a direct and engaging experience for watch enthusiasts worldwide.

However, this article is about how, on June 14, 2025, DUG had the opportunity to make a more permanent move to solidify its position in German watchmaking history.

An event was held in Glashütte to welcome State Secretary Thomas Kralinski of the Saxon State Ministry for Economic Affairs, Labor, Energy, and Climate Protection. The visit provided an opportunity to demonstrate how DUG is leveraging digitalization to broaden access to traditional Glashütte watchmaking.

While the mechanical watches are produced on Glashütte workbenches by skilled experts, maintaining a high degree of manual work and adhering to the stringent standards of the Glashütte Ordinance, all supporting processes are digitalized. Sales are conducted directly through the DUG website, where customers can configure their watches to their own personal configurations.

This model allows DUG to offer high-quality Glashütte watches at a more accessible price point than previously possible, fostering a direct connection between customers and these esteemed products. Because yes, availability to clients is cool guys.

Founder Toni Brodführer provided State Secretary Kralinski, along with German and international journalists, including my friend Knud, a firsthand look at the intricate hand-decoration of individual components. A tour of the company’s new headquarters, currently under construction in the heart of Glashütte, included a preview of upcoming DUG models. DUG plans to launch a diver’s watch and a smaller version of its Purist line in summer 2025. Stay tuned for my review on that.

“I am very pleased with the success that DUG has now had since its launch after years of planning. Thanks to our direct contact, we can not only keep the watches affordable for many people, but also tailor them to the wishes of our customers. The next step will be to enter the market in the USA and other countries. We are currently setting up a company headquarters in the heart of Glashütte to accommodate the additional capacity”  

Toni Brodführer 

The event concluded with a ceremonial inclusion of the DUG brand into the permanent exhibition of the Watch Museum, presided over by Director Dr. Molzahn. And THESE are the big news. Because, as cool as being digital can get, nothing beats the true, real life connection you get from seeing something in real life. It instantly signals to our brains that it’s rock solid and not going anywhere.

I’m very happy for Toni and the whole DUG team. You guys know how much heart I put into discovering new and young brands, and this one is such a delight. Thank you Knud for putting me on! Haha… 

I’ve been around watches long enough to know when one’s just a fling and when it’s a full-blown horological crush. You know the type—where you’re checking your wrist more to admire the dial than to tell the time, and you start timing things just for the joy of pressing a pusher. That started the moment I unboxed the Anders & Co AC1.

Let me take it back to when and where it started. This isn’t one of those giant heritage maisons or obscure Swiss indies charging a kidney and a half for a manually wound minute repeater. No, Anders & Co is a fresh face from Sweden, founded in 2024 by Mr. Alexander Larsson. This wasn’t some VC-funded hype machine either. Mr. Larsson’s story has roots. He was the U.S. brand manager for David Candaux, one of the most respected names in high-end independent watchmaking. But when COVID pulled the rug out from under his job, Larsson packed up and moved back to Sweden with a mission: make well-designed, vintage-inspired watches that real people could afford.

He named the company after his grandfather, Anders. Class move for sure. Even the brand’s logo has a story since it’s inspired from Pucon, a Chilean town close to Larsson’s heart. 

The Anders & Co AC1 Chronograph.

As of today, the AC1 Chronograph is their debut piece. And frankly, they could’ve stopped there, mic-dropped, and left the room. It’s that good. Mine? The Rose dial configuration. That dial… oh, that dial. It’s not just “Rose”, it’s the kind of Salmon dials that you only see with Patek or other high watchmaking names. It changes tones in different light like it’s got moods. And the Breguet numerals? Come onnn… That’s a flex. They give the whole thing this old-world charm without getting mainstream-y.

Specs-wise, it’s hitting all the sweet spots: 38mm in diameter (finally, someone’s listening), just over 11mm thick, double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating (More on this in a bit), and a Seiko VK64 Mechaquartz beating inside. Yes, mechaquartz. I can already hear a few mechanical-only purists sneering, but this movement hits the perfect note: quartz accuracy with a satisfying mechanical chronograph snap. You push the button, and you feel it. It’s tactile.

Once you own a few mechanical chronographs, you’ll learn to appreciate the loyalty of a Mechaquartz piece.

Wearing it? Effortless.

I’ve got mechanical divers, Swiss chronos, and a couple dress watches that probably think they’re royalty. But since the AC1 arrived, they’ve all taken a back seat. The AC1 slides under a cuff, shines in the sun, and starts conversations with people who don’t even know what a tachymeter is. It’s a vibe.

The case is stainless steel, the finishing: Crisp. It’s not over-engineered or trying to be something it’s not. It just works. Every element—from the 20mm leather strap (thank you for keeping it standard, Anders & Co) to the 3 ATM water resistance—is well considered. It feels like it was designed by someone who wears watches, not someone trying to reinvent them.

It’s not just me who noticed that the brand clearly cares. They’re not mass-producing this thing to death. Limited runs, thoughtful details… 

What really got me, though, is the community they’re building. Anders & Co isn’t just selling watches—they’re building a club, a vibe, a little corner of the internet (and the world) where people care about design, details, and stories. I registered early, shared a bit of my collecting journey with them, and it felt like talking to fellow watch nuts—not customer service bots in disguise. I even had the chance to talk to the founder ! 

Speaking of building a club, Anders & Co is now involved in the world of sailing. A sport I personally adore (Can’t wait for them to invite me on a sailing trip haha). I’ll let Mr Alexander tell you about it:

Yes, absolutely, we’re based on the west coast of Sweden, where sailing is quite big. We’re in Marstrand, which hosts a stop on the World Match Racing Tour. I got to meet Chris Poole there last summer after he won the event. He’s really into watches, so the ambassadorship came about pretty naturally.

My grandfather Anders was also very into sailing, so this all feels kind of full circle. It was a bit of a spontaneous partnership, since most of our designs have leaned vintage, but it’s opened the door for us to start working on high water resistance watches in the future, which we’re really excited about.

Everything about Anders & Co feels personal. It’s a tribute. A family story. A passion project that actually delivers.

Aside from the amazing dial and the very useful chronograph complication (I like to time everything guys, I’m a freak), the double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating makes the watch what it is. I’m not being dramatic, let me explain. 

With this type of crystal, one is able to appreciate some of the finest details on the dial. For instance, the ripple effect on the subdials would not have been apparent if the glass wasn’t so smooth and anti-reflective. The curved edges magnify the tachymeter scale, which allows me to nerd out on every millisecond. 

A Traditional Chronograph Design Identity.

A thought I shared in my recent Instagram Reel has stuck with me. This watch scratches my itch for a Patek Philippe ref.1463 “Tasti Tondi”.

YOU SEE IT RIGHT !? The Breguet numerals on 12 and 6, the tachymeter scale, the double domed sapphire…

I’m not saying that the AC1 is inspired by this reference whatsoever. What I’m saying is: This 2024 chronograph respects traditional design elements that make it feel and look like a proper luxury watch. 

Mr Alexander is no newcomer, which explains how fine this watch is.

Would I call it my favorite watch? Currently, yes. Today, right now, the AC1 is the one. It’s on my wrist as I write this, and it’ll still be there when I step out later—whether I’m grabbing coffee or heading into a work meeting. It just works.

So yeah, consider this my love letter to the AC1 Chronograph. Not because it’s flashy. Not because it’s hyped. But because it’s the rare kind of watch that reminds you why you got into this hobby in the first place.