Some watches are precise. Others are beautiful. But Venezianico watches well, they feel. They don’t just tell time; they whisper stories. They remember places. They connect people.

What began in Venice as a dream shared by two brothers, Alessandro and Alberto Morelli, has grown into something quietly revolutionary: a brand that places humanity at the center of horology. And in a world where most watchmakers speak through catalogues, Venezianico speaks through conversations—real ones.

From the first moment I came across their creations, it was clear this was something else. Their designs had heart, but also curiosity. I didn’t just see watches, I saw journeys. I didn’t just feel tempted, I felt invited. You don’t browse Venezianico the way you do other brands. You explore it, like a city. Like Venice.

The dial is often where a watch reveals its soul. And Venezianico dials? They are pure soul. I remember wearing their  Ultrablack for the first time. That texture of black absorbing 99.4% of light was a celestial void… It was like wearing a fragment of the universe. And then came the

Aventurine dial, a dial that seems alive, like a night sky glazed over with infinite depth. With each glance, it changes. It breathes. These dials don’t just impress you. They move you.

Their Special Editions are stories sculpted in steel. The Nereide GMT Emirates Edition, with its warm mother-of-pearl dial and elegant complexity, feels like a tribute to movement and modernity. And the Redentore Marco Polo 700th is not a watch. It’s an artifact—a sculpted homage to exploration, dialogue between worlds, and adventure.

These are not watches created to impress algorithms or chase trends. They are made for people who feel. And perhaps what’s most telling is that even those with extensive collections from Rolex to AP are now drawn to Venezianico. And not as a novelty, but as a must-have. Why? These watches transcend them and bring something fresh to a world that so often repeats itself.

And what truly cements that feeling is the relationship you build with the brand. I’ve never seen founders so present, humble, or engaged as the Morelli brothers. Alessandro and Alberto are not there as figureheads, but as voices. Whether replying personally to collectors in the Venezianico Facebook group or offering thoughtful recommendations at watch events across the globe or through WhatsApp, they treat every interaction as meaningful. It’s not a pure marketing strategy but a genuine closeness. You don’t feel like a customer, you feel like you belong.

Their innovation, too, flows from that human touch. They don’t innovate for headlines, but innovate because they listen. The bold shapes of the mighty  Arsenale remind us they’re not afraid to challenge tradition. They take risks. They dare (No Pun intended, Tudor).

But their finest expression yet is one that blends every element, craftsmanship, poetry, and soul into one object: the Redentore Utopia. A project born from years of dialogue, built entirely in Italy, powered by their first proprietary caliber, and finished with painstaking, artisanal care. From the hand-guilloché dial by Riccardo Renzetti to the leather strap crafted in Tuscany, every detail is slow, deliberate, and honest. There’s no flash. No excess. Just pure, essential beauty. A watch that feels less like an accessory and more like a philosophy. A Utopia not just named, but realized.

Because behind every detail, every stone dial, every limited edition… There are two brothers present, passionate and profoundly human. They’re not watching from afar. They’re walking with you. Listening. Creating. Evolving. Together with their community. And that’s why Venezianico is unlike anything else.

It’s not just a brand. It’s a family that opens its doors. It’s a story you don’t just admire. It’s one you join.

È arte. È familia. È Venezianico.

It is no secret that I am a japanese watchmaking fanatic. I mean, every watch enthusiast in their right mind and with some kind of knowledge would be. 

These people have mastered the art of precision. Not only in their movements and calibers —since that’s a given in the field of high watchmaking— but also in their finishings and every microscopic element of aesthetic perfection. 

Names like Grand Seiko — considered the face of high japanese watchmaking — and Naoya Hida & Co — the company that in my humble opinion is the equivalent of 1930s Patek Philippe with their extremely-limited-production artisanal masterpieces — are testaments to everything you’ll ever need to witness to believe in the miraculous work of japanese watchmakers. 

But here’s the catch. 

These brands are not an approachable option for the regular Joe. Meaning, this is dangerous and intimidating territory for beginner collectors who are not willing to spend the large sums of money necessary to acquire entry level pieces from these companies. 

Plain and simple. 

The equivalent ? 

As of these past few years, we have been witnessing the popularization of a new kind of Japanese watch brands. Affordable ones. Affordable small charming watch brands that can make a lasting impact on a beginner collector. And this is where Karl Leimon comes to play. 

Karl Leimon is a young Japanese watch company founded by two friends in 2017. Karl and Leimon aimed to fill a gap in the market by offering high-quality, classically designed watches at accessible prices. 

Their vision was strong and convincing enough and the brand gained significant attention through a successful crowdfunding campaign in Japan, raising over 100 million yen (approx $1 million USD).

The vision was clear and is very present to this very day: “Keep Modest Classic”. A brand slogan that can only be applauded, since the watch world is clearly in need of such fresh perspectives on more approachable timepieces like Karl Leimon’s.

My relationship with the brand.

If you have been following our instagram pages, I have taken it upon myself to introduce more niche/smaller brands to our Time-Telling community. You guys. I am thankful and grateful for the impact we have had on the African horology community, and I decided to take a more direct approach on you guys’ collecting journeys. 

So when I got in touch with the kind people of Karl Leimon, I couldn’t be happier. The variety of options really impressed me, and the impression I got was one of a company that is NOT slowing down. Quartz collections for the amateurs of precision as well as automatic ones for those who are always on the go… There is literally everything for everyone. 

The Standout Piece.

Speaking of collections, their latest is the automatic Classic Field. An assortment of field watches with the classiest of designs (pun intended). And that’s the one I have currently on my wrist while writing this article. 

Let me tell you, this watch is going to get a LOT of wrist time. Why ? It’s everything someone as active and as “On the go” as I am would ever want to accompany them. 

Quick spec run before I get into the details of my passion for this piece: 

The Ice Blue Applied Indices Classic Field

• Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
• Case Finish: Polished, satin-brushed
• Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire glass
• Case Diameter: 38mm
• Case Thickness: 9.5mm
• lug to lug: 46mm
• lug width: 20mm
• Water Resistance: 10ATM
• Screw down crown
• Movement: Miyota 9039, Automatic and Hand winding, 42 Hour Power Reserve
• Strap: Rubber, Pin buckle + Navy Blue Calf Leather strap

Let me dig into my personal reflections.

So when I got the watch and went through the very pleasant unboxing experience, I took a second to go back to the website and look at a few pictures and details in order to see if anything jumps off. I wanted an authentic and strong first impression. 

And boy was it strong ! This watch is exceptionally more beautiful in real life. 

I could talk about the quality, about the dial, about the finishing… but what I’d rather do is congratulate Karl Leimon for their excellent work on the case of this watch. 

More specifically, its dimensions. As mentioned before, we’re talking about a 38mm, 9.5mm thick case. And THAT was the deal breaker for me. 

This watch wears so thin and by extension SO LIGHT. 

I know a lot of you guys here love your dress watches to be as slim and sleek as possible. This Classic Field scratches that itch in every possible way. 

I’m wearing it today with a quarter zip and an oxford shirt, with that Navy Blue Calf leather strap, and I could not feel more complete. 

Yesterday ? on its original blue rubber strap while I was out at a construction site. A place where the “field” in its name truly comes out. Having full confidence in its 10 ATM water resistance, I did not shy away from putting it into the test. 

As with all construction sites, the lack of light is to be expected. But with the Classic Field’s powerful super luminova, one can not complain.

A very robust and reliable tool, yet such a classy and sleek upgrade. 

As you can tell, I wrote this article/ review with incredible passion for this microbrand. I’m known among my peers as the person who’s going to point out every single flaw in a watch (AKA a hater), but here, and while trying my best, I really can not bash down anything about this piece. 

Okay, maybe the movement, yes. But for $550, you are not going to get anything fancier that a 42 hour power reserve Japanese caliber. Let’s not fool ourselves here.

Check out https://karlleimonwatches.com/en/ for more incredible options ! 

We are excited. 

About this event. About the innovations. About these watches. About Cartier… But mainly about this new way of transmitting this excitement to you, our dear readers.

This article is a collaborative effort between myself, Walid, and Ms. Inass Akisra. The beloved Time-Telling Magazine writer and editor that never seizes to nail design oriented articles. So for something like the Cartier Tank à Guichets, or Cartier in general as a design driven brand/studio, we had to link up.

We had to link up for a good old “Cartier history lesson” article, from the sleek outsides to the intricate insides.

Inass here !

There are reissues, and then there are resurrections. Cartier’s 2025 revival of the Tank à Guichets falls firmly in the latter category — a design by Louis Cartier, so ahead of its time in 1928, it’s still on top of the design game nearly a century later. Originally conceived as a defiant rejection of traditional timekeeping aesthetics (hands? visible dials? overdone.), the Tank à Guichets ditched everything ornamental for a full metal face and two small windows: jumping hours, dragging minutes. It was modernism on the wrist — the horological equivalent of a steel skyscraper in a world of Edwardian mansions.

This year, Cartier brings it back under the Privé collection, and it’s as sculptural and self-assured as ever. The 2025 edition lands in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold — each with a vertically brushed façade that makes the case itself the dial. But the real flex is in the details: a limited edition of 200 pieces features the apertures offset at 10 and 4 o’clock — a deliberate break from symmetry that feels both measured and subversive. The minute disc now drags horizontally. There’s no logo. No numerals. Just presence. More on the technicality in a minute with Walid.

In a landscape flooded with maximalist skeletonized timepieces, this watch brings us back to the basics. Pared down, precise, and quietly radical. It’s Cartier doing what it does best: power in understatement. You already know what time it is — what matters is how you wear it.

About that “You know what time it is”… one of the major “personality traits” about the Tank à Guichet is, well, how you tell the time (pun intended). And that’s the thing… 

Okay, Walid here.

Let’s get one thing straight: the Cartier Tank à Guichets isn’t your average Tank. No Roman numerals, no blued steel hands, no dial even. Just two tiny windows cut into a brushed metal face—like a time machine trying to stay incognito. Behind those Guichets (that’s French for “little windows,” by the way), Cartier is hiding a very specific kind of mechanical chaos: a fully mechanical jump hour and jump minute complication.

Now pause. About visibility and legibility. 

Due to its dimensions, and those of the apertures, an instant read of the time is not what one should expect with this watch. Although it’s what it’s designed for… 

Christian Zeron from Theo&Harris made a comment that I couldn’t stop thinking about. He said that on the legibility spectrum, A Luminor from Panerai and the Tank à Guichets fall on opposite extremes. 

While handling a vintage 2817 a few months ago in a private collectors’ dinner, one thing was on my mind. Of course aside from the wow factor of holding an art piece, I kept saying to myself “Walid you are too blind for this”.

But anyways, here’s how it works.

 Instead of hands rotating around a dial, the time is displayed on two spinning discs—one for the hours, one for the minutes—that jump to their next position instantly. The hour jumps every 60 minutes. The minute disc, every five. The result is this very stealthy, very snappy digital time readout. 

That sudden “click” isn’t just for drama—it’s what watchmakers call an instantaneous jump, and it takes a lot more finesse than you’d think. The whole movement has to build up tension over time, storing energy in a spring-loaded cam system, then SNAP releases it at just the right moment to throw the disc forward exactly one notch. Miss the timing or mess up the torque, and the whole illusion falls apart.

This clever complication goes way back. The first Tank à Guichets dropped in 1928, and it was one of the earliest digital wristwatches—mechanically speaking—in history. Back then, Cartier most likely used a LeCoultre ébauche as the base and modified it in-house or through their U.S. branch, the European Watch and Clock Co. These early pieces were hand-wound and charmingly temperamental. 

The jump mechanisms were kind of energy hogs, meaning they drained power like a phone on 3% running Google Maps. Jumps weren’t always crisp, power reserves were short, and timing could get a little fuzzy. But even then, it was clear: this was a radical little machine hiding in a classy case.

When Cartier decided to bring it back in the 2000s under the CPCP (Collection Privée Cartier Paris) line, they gave it a movement makeover. The Caliber 9752 MC, a hand-wound movement based on the ultra-thin Piaget 450P. Cartier took this sleek little base and reworked it to handle the stress of the jumping discs—no small feat considering how much punch those jumps need and how tight the case tolerances are. It offered around 40 hours of power reserve and was finished like a show car: Geneva stripes, beveling, and a platinum case to match.

Then came the 2021 reboot, and Cartier didn’t just update the look—they built a new engine for it. The Caliber 9917 MC was developed in-house specifically for this model, and it’s got that lean, modern movement vibe. Manual wind, 36-hour power reserve, and a beat rate of 4 Hz (28,800 vph), which means it’s ticking fast and steady—perfect for precise jumps. It’s got skeletonized bridges, optimized energy flow, and super-clean engineering focused purely on making those discs land with pixel-perfect alignment, every single time.

And speaking of those discs—they’re not just random rotating plates. They’re made of super-light materials like aluminum or titanium, which matters a lot because heavier discs mean more torque is needed to move them, which in turn messes with the rest of the movement. By keeping them feather-light, Cartier makes sure they jump smoothly without dragging down the balance wheel. The numerals are either engraved and filled or perfectly printed, and the discs are laser-aligned during assembly to make sure they always land square in their windows. No half-jumps, no bounce, no blur. Just clean digital readout, Cartier-style.

None of this works without serious attention to energy management !!

The movement’s mainspring doesn’t just power the time—it also has to deliver bursts of energy strong enough to flip those discs without throwing off everything else. That means cams that build and store tension, intermediate wheels that act like mechanical buffers, and precisely shaped gear teeth that reduce friction and keep things moving like silk. Every five minutes, a miniature mechanical explosion happens inside this watch. And it doesn’t even break a sweat.

With no dial to hide behind, the discs and their positioning have to be flawless. There’s nowhere to tuck a misalignment or cover a mechanical hiccup. So Cartier engineered fixed guides inside the movement to keep the discs perfectly concentric. They use ultra-precise positioning during assembly, and some modern versions even include shock protection to keep your time aligned even if you knock it against a doorknob. The margin for error? Basically zéro…

So yeah, the Tank à Guichets may seem like a “chill girl” but lemme tell you she IS working hard under that brushed façade. It’s been a masterclass in minimalism waaay before it became an aesthetic. 

Whether you’ve caught a glimpse of it on the wrists of seasoned collectors like Mr. Auro Montanari, or immortal artists like the infamous American pianist and composer Mr. Duke Ellington; the Tank à Guichets could fairly be classified as the most emblematic Tank ever made. Some even dare to say, the best Cartier watch ever made. 

Either way, you are not wrong. Because this article was only about the basic concepts that make the à Guichets what it is. However, one thing we have deliberately abstained from discussing —Or else this would become something else rather than an enjoyable story— is the large catalog of configurations and references that fall under the Tank à Guichets umbrella. 

And as with significant pieces like these, rarity is often of second nature. Especially since production for these watches ceased from the 1930s, when they were a special order model, then back in 1996.

First joint article was fun. Let us know if you want more !

*We do not own the rights to any of these photos. please note that all images and copyrights belong to their original owners. no copyright infringement intended.*

Let me get this out of the way: I’m really happy the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is back.

I didn’t live through the 80s hype, but I’ve always had a soft spot for that cheerful, racing-inspired watch that didn’t take itself too seriously. And while the vintage versions always looked a bit too plasticky for me (don’t cancel me, collectors), this new one? I love it. It keeps the spirit, but finally looks like a watch I’d actually want to wear every day — and not just ironically.

TAG did a great job capturing the retro vibe without falling into the trap of making it a museum piece. The shape? Nailed it. The colors? Spot on. The energy? 10/10. Even the fact that they went solar is kind of cool. Eco-friendly, no battery changes, and still feels like a legit sports watch. So far, I’m all in.

But then — oh then — comes the price tag.

€1,850. For plastic. (Sorry: biodegradable polymer. My bad.)

Now don’t get me wrong, I get it. The materials are better. The solar movement is neat. The sapphire crystal adds points. And hey, it’s a TAG — not a cereal box giveaway. But still, when I look at this cheerful little thing and its vibe that screams “collect me all,” I can’t help but think… isn’t this watch begging to go full MoonSwatch mode?

Swatch got people queuing for plastic watches like it was the new iPhone. And TAG could’ve done the same — Formula 1 liveries, team editions, tracks of the world. Gotta catch ’em all. But instead, they priced it like it’s already on the podium with champagne in hand. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still charming. But that charm hits a little different when it costs the same as a nice night in Tokyo… for two.

Also, side note: I stumbled across the KITH collab and literally said “meh.” Which is shocking, considering I usually say YES to anything Ronnie Fieg touches — like, he could collab with a toaster and I’d ask for the colorways. So if I wasn’t excited, maybe that says something.

All jokes aside: Am I still excited? Definitely. Do I want one? Absolutely. But will I be daydreaming of a £650 version that makes me feel like I’m building a collection of pit lane champions on a budget? You bet.

Final thought? The Formula 1 is back, it looks better than ever, and deep down, I’m not rooting for this price tag. Not even close. I’ll just keep waiting (and hoping) for another Snoopy MoonSwatch livery, because at least that’s what I call funny, collectible, and budget friendly — all the things a Formula 1 watch revival should be.

Let me say it again. Patek Philippe did not disappoint. 

The face of high watchmaking had a –how can I say it nicely– a “setback” this past October 2024, with its leaked Cubitus collection. The 3 watches that quite literally SHOOK the watch world as well as our flawless perception of the brand and its executives. Full article here.

Especially when the CEO basically called all of us poor peasants… But I digress. 

2025’s Pateks were BEAUTIFUL. I use “beautiful” to reaffirm a point made by Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer when he said: “I need for Patek to be beautiful…” and I couldn’t agree more. I know I’m repeating myself here, but Patek Philippe IS Haute-Horlogerie. Just look at something like the ref. 1518. Do yourself that favor. 

This article is about Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. 

Not all of them, but the ones that I consider to be modern day classics. The watches we will 100% see in auctions in about 40 years from now. The watches that hit every spot. The watches that truly matter.

My number 1, the 5370R.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5370R is a distinguished timepiece that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to haute horlogerie, combining intricate complications with exquisite craftsmanship. It marks the first iteration of this model in rose gold, expanding upon its predecessors by offering a warmer aesthetic. This release continues Patek Philippe’s tradition of creating sophisticated split-seconds chronographs, a complication highly esteemed by watch enthusiasts for its complexity and functionality. In other words, what sold it for me.

Concerning the boring technicalities, the watch is crafted in 18K rose gold, the case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.56mm in thickness, providing a substantial yet elegant presence on the wrist. The piece features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial, a testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery in dial-making (as well as everything else to be honest). The dial is adorned with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale. The whole package is on a dark chestnut alligator leather strap, secured with a rose gold fold-over clasp. Nothing out of the ordinary.

Okay but what’s inside ? 

At the heart of the 5370R is the manually wound Caliber CHR 29-535 PS, an in-house movement renowned for its traditional architecture, including a column wheel and horizontal clutch. This movement is a culmination of Patek Philippe’s expertise in chronograph design.

This advanced caliber contains a split-seconds chronograph complication. Meaning, it allows the measurement of intermediate times—a feature highly valued in precision timekeeping. Additionally, it includes a tachymeter scale for calculating speed over a known distance. The newcomers must be loving this LOL…

Let me make something clear, this is not a new watch. Prior to the 5370R (R for rose gold), Patek Philippe released the Reference 5370P (P for Platinum) in 2015, featuring a platinum case and black enamel dial. The transition to rose gold with the 5370R introduces a warmer aesthetic and one that in my opinion gives it more depth and emphasizes the point made earlier about Patek being BEAUTIFUL.

I said it before and I’ll say it again, this is my favorite watch from this year’s W&WG.

But we’re definitely not done yet.

IT’S CALATRAVA TIME !

 The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6196P-001, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, made me tear up from joy. This platinum timepiece draws inspiration from Patek Philippe’s storied history, notably the iconic Reference 96. Again, tears. 

I will always ALWAYS love Calatravas. 

Hell, my grail watch is a vintage yellow gold Ref. 96 with Breguet numerals. 

Please note that these watches are from the 50s. As in the 1950s. So to get a 2025 release that is SO true to the original and traditional Calatrava design… I think you get my point.

Specs time !!

The 6196P-001 features a 38mm diameter and a thickness of 9.33mm, crafted from platinum. The case design merges brushed surfaces with a polished bezel and slender lugs. The opaline rose-gilt (salmon) dial adorned with applied white gold faceted “obus”-style hour markers and a small-seconds indicator at 6 o’clock. 

The point here again, is the preservation of the true identity of the “Calatrava”.

Priced at $47,130, it is no “entry level Patek” despite its incredible simplicity and lack of complications. Again, it’s a Calatrava. 

The Patek Philippe 4946R: This one deserves way more applause from us.

So, the Patek Philippe 4946R doesn’t scream for attention. It’s not trying to win chronograph battles or one-up other complications. What it does instead is offer one of the cleanest annual calendars you can wear without feeling like you’re trying too hard. This reference—in rose gold, naturally—keeps things refined, functional, and cool as hell. If the 5370R (Mentioned previously as my fav) is a grand statement, the 4946R is a whisper that still gets heard.

Now for the boring bits (you asked for it):

This model comes in an 18K rose gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. So yeah, smaller than what most modern buyers are used to, but that’s the point—it’s elegant, not shouty. The dial? Opaline silver-gray with gold applied numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Just enough detail to make it interesting, but not enough to make you stare at it confused. On the dial you’ve got the day, month, 24-hour indication, moon phase, and a date subdial—all in perfect balance. It’s like Swiss graphic design in watch form.

Under the hood (or caseback if you’re being literal), you’ve got the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU. That’s Patek’s go-to annual calendar movement—one that only needs adjusting once a year in February. Yes, it’s that smart. And no, you don’t need to take it to your watch guy every other month.

This reference as I said will probably stick around for a while. Why? Because it works. Because it’s beautiful. And because not everything needs a reinvention to stay relevant. The 4946R is for people who understand that winning doesn’t always have to be complicated—even though, in this case, it low-key is.

Closing statement: No matter how many case sizes it gets or materials they make it with, I will always be a certified Cubitus hater. 

Stay tuned for the upcoming indie watch releases article and subscribe to the newsletter to get notified. 

I had so much fun writing this, I love you guys.

Walid Benla.

In the following piece, let’s take a moment to discover one of the most existentially fabulous releases at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025: the Hermès Cut collection, reimagined with the Le Temps Suspendu complication — now in a larger diameter (39mm instead of 36mm), rendered in rose gold, and enhanced with bold new dial tone.

Now yes, there were plenty of shiny, head-turning releases this year, but this one stands out for a totally different reason. It’s not just about looks — it’s a concept piece wrapped in elegance. Because, and here’s the twist: it doesn’t just tell time — it lets you turn it off. (And pretend to be Flash for a while)

What Even Is “Le Temps Suspendu” ?

Let’s break it down. “Le Temps Suspendu” literally means “Suspended Time,” and that’s not just poetic marketing fluff. 

With the press of a button, the hands on this watch jump to a fixed position — like they’re frozen — and just stay there.

The kicker? The movement inside keeps running the whole time.
So when you press the button again, the hands snap back to the real time, right where it should be. 

To animate that fascinating machination Hermès had to use the  H912 Movement — a self-winding caliber developed by Vaucher (which Hermès partly owns). To that, Hermès adds its own proprietary Le Temps Suspendu module — the magic trick that freezes the hands without stopping the heart of the watch. So while time appears to stop, the mechanism quietly ticks on in the background, keeping track for when you’re ready to rejoin the timeline.

And here’s a perfect quirky trait woven right into the dial: the petites secondes subdial? It runs counterclockwise on a 24-second rotation. It defies time by running in reverse — just because it can. A small but sharp reminder of the watch’s playful, thought-provoking nature.

Because Hermès believes that sometimes, the most meaningful moments are the ones we don’t measure. The suspended time complication is whimsical, useless in the best way, and entirely poetic — which is exactly why it’s so unique.

Do you want to tune out during a long dinner, get lost in a sunset, or just forget you’ve got a meeting in 20 minutes? Press the pusher. Time, suspended.

(Editor’s Note: Think Doctor Strange’s Eye of Agamotto — but make haute horlogerie)

Variants, Versatility, and Design Language

Meanwhile, the watch’s versatility is cultivated through a range of versions, including two silver-toned dial models — one with a diamond-encrusted bezel — and a one-shot sunburst red dial variant already stirring up collector buzz. 

Adding to its modularity, a system of interchangeable bracelets that features 2 options: a white rubber strap, and a rose-gold bracelet to match the case.

Through all the constituting elements of this timepiece (Design, Concept, Complication, Material…) Hermès embodied its most quintessential “Hermès” definition traits. Elegant. Poetic. Quietly disruptive. Timelessness (quite literally here). It’s a reminder to live in the moment — and choose when time matters. And the fact that Hermès could take something so poetic and abstract — and make it tangible through engineering? PURE MASTERY

My take ?

That said, we’d love to have seen one more size variation: a 36mm diameter — the same size as the original 2024 Cut collection. Why? Simple: choice. 

While more women are embracing bolder, oversized cases, many still prefer traditional proportions or simply have smaller wrists. At 36mm, the Cut would hit that modern sweet spot — contemporary, elegant, and universally wearable — especially for fashion-first buyers and enthusiasts alike.

Spec Rundown: Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu

Caliber: Self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1912; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: 360° retrograde hour and minute hands; 24-second running indicator; pusher-operated start-stop function for suspending time

Dial: Sunburst red-tinted or silver-toned opaline
Case: 39mm; rose gold; 100m water-resistance
Strap: Interchangeable rose gold bracelet with butterfly clasp; additional white-coloured rubber strap

Presented as a quiet revolution, the new Rolex Land-Dweller doesn’t lack technical firepower. Its caliber 7135, beating at 5 Hz, shows a clear ambition for precision. The Dynapulse escapement, made of silicon, embodies modernity without sacrificing power reserve (66 hours) or mechanical robustness. On paper, the Land-Dweller ticks all the boxes of a 21st-century Rolex: high-performing, elegant, immaculately finished.

The 40 mm case, with a slim 9.7 mm profile, pairs with an integrated Flat Jubilee bracelet, giving the watch a contemporary, fluid, almost architectural silhouette. That alone is enough for some to see it as a deliberate nod to the Oysterquartz—Rolex’s oddball child born out of the quartz revolution of the 1970s. Technically and aesthetically, the Land-Dweller appears to strike a balance: a clever tribute to the past and a controlled step into the future.

But by trying so hard to strike that balance, the Land-Dweller ends up resembling something Rolex has never been: a follower of trends.

Yes, the integrated bracelet is superbly crafted. Yes, the case is sculpted with the surgical precision we’ve come to expect from the brand with the crown. But come on… are we witnessing the Royal Oak-ification of Rolex? It’s starting to look like the global obsession with integrated sport-chic silhouettes has reached all the way to Geneva. And if we’re being honest, doesn’t this Land-Dweller look suspiciously like the secret lovechild of an Oysterquartz who came back from the plastic surgeon with a photo of a Royal Oak in hand?

And let’s be blunt: the launch price isn’t exactly hiding. It climbs—rockets, even—into the upper stratosphere, bordering on indecent when it comes to precious metal versions (€106,250 for the Everose gold diamond-set edition). So yes, Rolex is setting a new benchmark… but mostly a new psychological price point to drag up the starting prices of future models, even in steel. The Land-Dweller isn’t a watch—it’s a strategic marker.

Honestly?

At that price, I’d rather pick up twenty PRXs from Tissot (automatic ones, even) than give in to this neo-minimalist Rolex with an integrated bracelet.
And if I actually had €106,250 to blow on a gold Land-Dweller, I think I’d rather overhaul my entire watch collection… and buy an apartment in Tangier with a sea view. At least that would come with a real power reserve.

And then there’s the dial. Ah yes, the famous “honeycomb” dial—subtly textured, presumably designed to evoke nature’s ingenuity, the geometric precision of a hive, or maybe just to charm texture-lovers. Let’s be clear: it’s well done. But if you’re going to evoke a beehive, I wish the price didn’t only attract the gilded bees of the financial world.

At this point, we’re no longer talking haute horlogerie. We’re talking high-altitude beekeeping: and the only honey we’re getting here is the one Rolex is using to sugarcoat the pill of its pricing strategy.

Aiman Hammoud.

Hello friends and welcome to our Watches and Wonders 2025 series. A LOT of articles will be published, and each one of them is as important as the other. Short reads with incredible value and deep analysis.

So okay, let’s talk about one of the MANY new releases of this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders Geneva (or as we called it in this week’s editorial meeting: “Horology’s Fashion Week”). A fun one: The Tudor Blackbay 58 with a burgundy dial and bezel. 

But wait a minute, remember when I told you guys in the Longines’ article that burgundy is in style this year? well I visibly was on the wavelength as the design team at Tudor. And yes, I’m taking full bragging rights for that one.

Although don’t be fooled, this tone-on-tone colour choice isn’t ENTIRELY NEW; if you dive deep enough into Tudor’s archive, you’ll know that it’s a remake of a 1990s Submariner prototype (ref. 79190) that never made its way to the hands of consumers (and which pictures aren’t readily available on the internet).

Aside from the shiny new look, the watch also got an upgrade under the hood. It’s powered by the in-house self-winding Caliber MT5400-U, which has achieved METAS Master Chronometer certification. This certification ensures a precision rating of 0/+5 seconds per day, along with a resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, and a 65-hour power reserve. 

The 39mm stainless steel case still hits that sweet spot for vintage-inspired proportions, and this time, it comes with options — a five-link bracelet, a classic three-link, or a comfy rubber strap; all with a T-fit clasp—Tudor’s favourite. More on bracelets in Walid’s article. 

However, that DARING shade of burgundy has sparked some debates amongst enthusiasts like: “it doesn’t look the same IRL”, “It hits better on-screen”.

We think this new addition to the lineup, while it may not seem like much on paper, is yet another confident move in Tudor’s sans-faute parcours since 2012. 

We love how the brand keeps things low-key yet meaningful through solid, thoughtful updates — and the mile-long waitlists to get this beauty will attest to that.

And let’s be real guys, it is pretty.

Walid has given it his seal of approval with the following statement : “I’m completely mesmerized by it and seriously considering it” and let me tell you, my friend KNOWS his stuff but you guys already knew that.

Spec Rundown: 

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Ref. M7939A1A0RU-0001

Movement: Self-winding METAS-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U and a 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds

Case: 39mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 200m
Dial: Burgundy

Strap: Five-link or three-link “rivet-style” stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes or rubber strap; all configured with a “T-fit” clasp.

The most beautiful watches this year are the ones on gold bracelets. Period. 

I wanted to start by making that strong statement, to set the tone for this article and the ones to come. Because my dear friends, this year’s W&W was actually really good, and we intend to highlight the beauty and technical genius behind some of the most notable releases (From both big and smaller brands, more to come in the upcoming hours)

And The Most Beautiful Bracelet Award Goes To… 

For those of you who don’t keep up with the watch world drama, a big chunk of the criticism directed towards watch brands and their novelties has been about their bracelets. AKA the most important part since it’s what actually makes them wearable and not pocket watches.

The links, the clasp, the adjustment technology… And the overall aesthetics of the whole thing.

Let me cut to the chase and go through 3 of the watches with (in my humble personal opinion) the most mesmerizing bracelets from this year’s Watches & Wonders.

(In Order)

Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

Design wise, this sits at the top spot for me. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre is back with another stunning take on the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, this time in a refined pink gold execution (ref. Q713216J). If you’re familiar with the Tribute lineup, you’ll know JLC has been offering similar models in both steel and pink gold for some time. But this one comes with a fresh twist: a grained-texture pink gold dial that plays beautifully with light, adding an extra layer of sophistication to the already iconic Art Deco design.

The biggest talking point, though? That bracelet. JLC has paired this Reverso with a pink gold Milanese mesh-style bracelet, a rare sight in the collection and one that brings a distinctly vintage charm while maintaining a luxurious presence. It’s flexible, comfortable, and secured with a sliding clasp for a precise fit—perfect for those who want an elegant, dressy Reverso with a bit of extra flair.

Of course, inside the sleek 27.4mm x 45.6mm x 7.56mm case, you’ll find the in-house, hand-wound caliber 822. This ultra-thin movement keeps things traditional with hours, minutes, and a small seconds display, all while delivering a respectable 42-hour power reserve. It’s a nod to the Reverso’s long heritage of manually wound movements—just like the ones that powered the earliest models in the 1930s.

I can’t not come back and say this again but, that pink gold-on-pink gold combo !! God… I can’t wait to visit my Jaeger friends.

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Rolex has given a refined glow up to its Perpetual 1908 collection by introducing the Settimo bracelet, a fully polished seven-link design crafted in 18-carat yellow gold. This new bracelet enhances the watch’s dressy appeal, transforming it into a piece that seamlessly blends horological precision with jewelry-like sophistication.

The Settimo bracelet comprises seven small, highly articulated links polished to a mirror finish, offering mainly flexibility. It features a concealed Crownclasp, keeping the watch’s clean and uninterrupted aesthetic. Additionally, Rolex has developed a special attachment system for connecting the bracelet to the middle case, for which a patent has been filed. Notably, the Settimo bracelet is exclusively reserved for the 1908 model, underscoring its unique status within Rolex’s catalogue.

While the bracelet introduces a fresh dimension to the 1908, the watch itself retains its distinguished features. A 39mm diameter, 9.5mm thickness with an in-house calibre 7140. It comes in both black and white dial options, maintaining the distinctive handset that combines a Breguet-style hour hand with a sword-style minute hand.

On our Time-Telling Watch Club Facebook group, one of the members asked “Why would someone buy this €35k Rolex over a Calatrava?” 

And I replied:

“Although I have been guilty of comparing the 1908 to the Calatrava multiple times, I don’t think it’s fair to do so.

The 1908 has Cellini roots that nobody is ever allowed to underestimate or undermine. That’s not me being biased, and you guys knooooowwww how much I dislike modern Rolex.

To keep it short and to let you guys enjoy the upcoming article, the answer to the question would be that this watch is Rolex dipping its finger into the design well. Meaning, all we’re seen are generic and predictable pieces that show 0 creative instinct from their design team.

But this one is actually genuinely very pretty. A time only gold dress watch. Everything but a tool watch (Rolexes are typically tool watches).

Notice how the bracelet is NOT integrated on this one while it is in the 2526 Pateks…”

Let me also add, the geezer watch effect is in full action here. What I mean by that is, a Calatrava will not give you the same smooth and spotless effect the Settimo’s hidden clasp will do. The closest Calatrava equivalent as I mentioned before would be the 2526 or even the 2586 and NONE of them will hug your wrist like the Rolex will. They also don’t have an open caseback for their automatic in house movements.

This obviously is very subjective and to be fair, not enough to justify the absurd price tag to your life partners or financial managers.

A. Lange & Söhne ODYSSEUS in 750 HONEY GOLD

They COOKED with this one. 

At Watches and Wonders 2025, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Odysseus Honeygold, a refined iteration of their sport-luxury timepiece. This model showcases the brand’s exclusive Honeygold alloy, a proprietary 18-carat gold known for its warm hue and exceptional hardness, surpassing that of traditional gold alloys. The use of Honeygold not only enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal but also contributes to its durability. I mean it’s still a sports watch.

The Odysseus Honeygold features a 40.5mm case with a thickness of 11.1mm, maintaining the dimensions of its predecessors. What we’re here for  is the integrated Honeygold bracelet, marking the first time this material has been used for the bracelet in the Odysseus line. The bracelet’s five-row design integrates seamlessly into the case, ensuring both aesthetic harmony and supreme comfort. It includes a micro-adjustment mechanism, allowing wearers to fine-tune the fit without removing the watch.

The Odysseus collection, introduced in 2019, marked A. Lange & Söhne’s entry into the luxury sports watch segment. Initially released in stainless steel with an integrated bracelet, the line expanded to include white gold variants paired with rubber or leather straps. The introduction of the Honeygold model with a matching bracelet represents a fusion of the brand’s proprietary material with the sport-luxury design ethos of the Odysseus. 

People have been loving this one. And although it’s limited to 100 units, enthusiasts and critics have praised the Odysseus Honeygold for its harmonious blend of luxury and sportiness. The warm tones of the Honeygold alloy, combined with the brown dial, have been highlighted as particularly appealing, offering a distinctive alternative to traditional steel sports watches. 

3 watches. 3 beautiful gold bracelets. No Cubitus propaganda, that’s for Hodinkee

Do you agree with this ? Did I miss something ? Tell me in the comments.

Stick around for the W&W 25 articles spam !