Microbrands are about the only thing in this world that still gives me goosebumps. Bonus points if the microbrand is Japanese. So you can deduce the emotions I got after getting my hands on one of KUOE KYOTO’s best looking watches.
There’s a lot to be said here. A lot of emotions as I said, a lot of opinions and a lot of conclusions. So allow me today to talk about KUOE and their first dive watch, the SOMBRERO 90-011.
You guys know me well enough to know that I like to put things in context. So how about a little background about the brand and its beginnings ?
From Kuoe’s website, we can understand that the origin of the KUOE brand and concept dates back to 2010.
Mr. Kenji Uchimura, the designer and founder, was a university student studying language in London, England when he just so happened to enter a shop that was handling antique watches.
There was a line-up of hand-wound watches from the 1940s – ‘70s. He was instantly drawn to them and their ability to keep time even after the rich accumulation of history in the decades that had passed. Although the watches were antiques, they somehow felt warm and refreshing, and were naturally appealing to wear on the wrist.
There, in that shop, Mr. Uchimura found the strong appeal of classic design, and realized that something that is truly classic is loved and revered universally around the world and across generations. Deeply influenced by this experience, he was inspired to create a classic design watch brand of his own.
After graduating university, Uchimura began working for a watch company in Kyoto –a city steeped in Japanese tradition. For a few years, he gained experience in the business and learned more about watches until he was ready to launch a sub-brand which was dedicated to his idea of introducing the classic design he had seen in those antiques in London into new models of wristwatches.
In 2020, he was finally able to establish his own classic watch brand, KUOE. The first model, Old Smith 90-001 in April.
Other iconic models include the sleek but robust Old Smith 90-002. Inspired by British military watches from the 1940s to 1970s, the piece features a 35mm case, thick Arabic numerals, and luminous hands. It houses a Seiko NH35A automatic movement and is available in various dial colors, including Dark Navy, Black, Deep Green, and Ivory.
Can’t forget about the Royal Smith 90-006, or what I call the proper gentleman’s watch. The Royal Smith 90-006 is considered KUOE’s premium offering, featuring a 35mm case and a dial with a traditional Japanese “Waffle” texture. It is powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement, which makes it an upgrade on the 006 model line, and has been even more popular than its predecessor.
Okay but what does the public think ?
KUOE KYOTO has received positive feedback from watch enthusiasts for its vintage-inspired designs, build quality, and value for money. More on that in a bit.
Collectors appreciate the brand’s attention to detail and the nostalgic appeal of its timepieces. The dimensions, the dials… These are keywords that are constantly repeated in client reviews. I mean just type the brand’s name on Reddit and you’ll see how peaceful and positive everybody is; something we never see on the platform…
Let’s dig into the watch I now have on my wrist.
The Sombrero 90-011.
The SOMBRERO 90-011 marks KUOE KYOTO’s entry into the dive watch category. Please keep this in mind while reading the rest of this article, because that’s SIGNIFICANT !
Named after the Sombrero Galaxy, the watch draws inspiration from the galaxy’s distinctive appearance, featuring a linen-textured dial and a compressor-style case.
Quick spec rundown:
- Case: Stainless steel with a diameter of 37mm, featuring a cushion-shaped design reminiscent of mid-century dive watches.
- Dial: Available in various colors, this one in a distinctive green variant, with bold hour markers and a minute track for enhanced legibility.
- Super-LumiNova hands and dial.
- Movement: Miyota Cal. 9039 Automatic. -10 to +30 seconds per day (23º± 2ºC)
- Water Resistance: 20 BAR or 200 Meters, designed to withstand water exposure, suitable for everyday wear and diving activities.
- Strap: Comes with a stainless steel bracelet (Flat link or Jubilee) and an additional leather strap.
MY OPINION AND PERSONAL REFLECTIONS:
I really like this watch.
And the whole brand if I’m being honest. I have been in close contact with the company’s media managers for more than 4 months now and that tells you something. I remember mentioning KUOE on my instagram story once and my DMs were flooded with messages along the lines of “Walid are you working with them ?”, “You need to reach out to them and review their watches”… And here we are now.
So, off the bat, that dial is absolutely mesmerizing. The linen texture is so rich and beautiful, especially when you get the chance to play with it under a sunray. Mamma Mia !
The credit should be given to the single-domed sapphire glass with AR coating and AF coating, for the transparency and ease of legibility.
Speaking of that, the finishing on the case and the bracelet are very nice. I took a picture of a Matcha drink for my friend (Terrible drink by the way), and that bracelet was SHINING !
On the topic of first impressions, and as I mentioned before, the 38mm case wears smaller than you’d expect. BUT and here’s the catch, the bracelet does give it more definition of the wrist. It does come with a brown leather strap and let me tell you, it completely changes the perceived dimensions of the wrist.
About that, bracelets and straps, one negative thing about the amazing piece that the Sombrero is, is the clasp. It’s huge. And might I even say, it can be uncomfortable. It really hurts me to say it, but that clasp needs an upgrade. Yes it has the quick adjustment option which comes handy throughout the day, but maybe something lighter, less chunky.
Love the case, love the dial, love the flat links, love the finishing, love the crowns, love the Internal and bidirectional bezel, LOVE the unboxing experience and all the accessories…
But should you get this watch ?
I mean, why not ? Priced at $859.00, it does have some competition but it certainly stands its ground. A sub 1000$ dive watch like the Sombrero is perfect for anybody trying to graduate from their G SHOCKs or Citizens. It’s well fitting, well designed, well proportioned and well, very practical. AND it’s from a Japanese brand that pays this much attention to details, so again, Why not ?
*Bonus points for the incredible customer service
I don’t want to make this any longer and keep throwing my personal opinions on you guys, so please tell us what you personally think !
Check out KUOE KYOTO here, and see you later !
All the pictures are either ours or taken from https://www.kuoe-en.com/
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